Eliminate Debt

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If you’re feeling as if your student loans are hard to manage, you’re not alone. Currently, more than 43 million Americans are grappling with student loan debt, and the amounts they carry aren’t small. The average amount of federal student debt per borrower is $37,338, and for those with private student loan debt, the number is $54,921.

That kind of steep debt can be a challenge to pay back. In October of 2023, as the pandemic-driven freeze on loan repayment expired, a whopping 40% of borrowers missed payments.

If your loans feel like a real challenge to repay and you’re stressed about your financial situation, take heart. Not only are you far from the only person out there with this issue, but there are also a variety of ways you can get help with student loan debt. Here, you’ll learn more about those resources and steps you can take. Remember, you can and will get through this challenging moment. Now, read on for some guidance.

Where to Start

If you’re finding it hard to manage your student debt, your best first step may be to contact your loan servicer. Both the federal government and many private lenders assign a student loan servicer to each borrower. You can think of these servicers as go-betweens who monitor accounts, keep track of payments, and help borrowers maintain their accounts in good standing and switch plans, if need be. You can find your federal student loan servicer by logging into your student aid account; if you have private student loans, ask your lender how to make billing inquiries.

Student loan servicers can help you understand your options if you are finding your current loan hard to pay off. But do educate yourself before calling your servicer, because they are loan professionals vs. advocates for borrowers. It’s possible that they may offer options that are not necessarily in your best interest.

However, there is likely considerable value in hearing what alternatives are available so you can begin getting help with your student loan debt. You’ll learn more about options below.
💡 Quick Tip: Ready to refinance your student loan? You could save thousands.

What to Do If You’re in Default

When you default on your student loans, it means you are not repaying them according to your schedule. Almost 10% of borrowers can find themselves in default within the first three years of repayment.

When you first miss a student loan payment, your loan is considered to be delinquent, or late. The exact definition of being in default will depend on the kind of loan you have. Here are some guidelines:

•   If you have federal student loans, you are considered to be in default when your payments are 270 days (or about nine months) late. With Perkins loans, you can be in default as soon as you don’t make a payment on its due date.

•   For private student loans, many lenders consider a loan to be in default at the 90 day or three-month mark. Policies do vary, so check your loan’s promissory note for details.

You can find out if you are in default by contacting your loan servicer. If you are indeed in default, the consequences can be serious. The full amount of the loan becomes due ASAP. The loan holder can take other funds from you, late fees and interest can accrue, and your credit score can be negatively impacted, among other impacts.

Yes, that sounds scary, but this is a situation to be worked through; don’t let it define you or make you feel panicky. You might research the Fresh Start program for federal loans in default, or look into a student loan settlement, which would allow you to pay back less than what you owe. Student loan rehabilitation is another path and can be a one-shot solution to get federal loans out of default, repay them at a reasonable rate, and help build your credit score.

If you have private loans that are in default, it can be a wise move to speak to someone who specializes in student loans at the National Association for Consumer Advocates. You may then get assistance finding out if you can get a student loan settlement (that is, pay less than the full amount you owe) or find another road forward.

Next, though, learn about ways to avoid reaching the default stage if you are having trouble with your student loan debt.

Ways to Lower Your Federal Student Loan Payment

If you’re struggling to make your monthly federal student loan payments, it may be worth taking a look at your loan repayment plan. Federal student loans have several different loan repayment plans available, which may offer different monthly payment amounts based on your discretionary income and other factors.

Choosing a federal loan repayment plan that could give you a lower monthly payment, if available, could help you more easily make your monthly student loan payments. Consider these options.

Income-Driven Repayment

You may have been placed on the Standard Repayment Plan when you graduated, which is the standard for students repaying federal loans.

Under this plan, you have 10 years to pay off your student loans, and you make a fixed payment amount each month in order to ensure that your full loan is paid by the end of the 10 years. This plan may have higher monthly payments than other federal repayment plans.

In addition to the Standard Repayment plan, there are the following plans:

•   One option is the Graduated Repayment Plan. Under this plan, loan payments are made over a 10-year period. But unlike the Standard Repayment plan, loan payments start at a lower amount and are gradually increased every two years.

•   Another option when it comes to federal repayment plans is the Extended Repayment Plan. The Extended Repayment Plan has a longer repayment term option — up to 25 years. Monthly payments under this plan can be either fixed or graduated amounts. The extended repayment term means that you may have lower monthly payments.

Be aware, however, that choosing a longer repayment period could cost you more over the life of the loan due to interest that accrues every month that the loan is still outstanding. Think carefully about what might best suit your needs so you can pay off your student loan debt comfortably.

There are also four income-driven plans that calculate monthly payments based on a percentage of the borrower’s discretionary income. The percentage will vary based on the specific income-driven repayment plan you are enrolled in, but can be between 5% and 20%. Depending on the plan, repayment is extended over 20 or 25 years.

The plans available are:

•   The new SAVE Plan (Saving on a Valuable Education; it goes into full effect on July 1, 2024), which replaces the REPAYE plan

•   The PAYE Plan (Pay as You Earn)

•   The ICR Plan (Income-contingent Repayment)

•   The IBR Plan (Income-based Repayment)

With federal loans, you can change your repayment plan at any time. If you are interested in switching the plan you are enrolled in to better manage your debt, the Federal Student Aid website offers a repayment calculator that could help give you an idea of what your monthly payments may be like under each of the different payment plans.

This could help you make an informed decision about which plan may work best for your personal situation, based on what you qualify for. You could also use an online Student Loan Payoff Calculator to get an idea of when your loan payoff date may be based on your interest rate and monthly payments. Yes, crunching numbers can take a bit of time, but these tools can make it simple, show you your alternatives for managing your debt, and provide some much-needed peace of mind.

Deferment and Forbearance

If you’re really in dire straits and can’t afford to make your normal monthly payments on your student loans at all, you may be able to put your federal student loans into deferment or forbearance.

These programs offer options to temporarily reduce your monthly payment amount or pause your monthly payments entirely for a limited period of time. Not all borrowers are eligible for deferment or forbearance — in order to qualify you need to meet certain eligibility requirements.

A few points to note:

•   If you’re interested in deferring your federal student loans to help with student loan debt, you’ll want to contact your student loan servicer. Your student loan servicer may require you to fill out paperwork or talk to an advisor before approving a deferral or forbearance of your student loans.

•   Student loan servicers may offer assistance with student loan debt management at no cost. They also may be able to explain how student loan deferral or forbearance will work in your specific circumstances.

•   It is also important to know that during deferment, depending on the type of loan borrowed, the borrower may still be responsible for paying interest that accrues.

•   If a loan is in forbearance, the borrower will be responsible for paying accrued interest.

While deferring your student loans can be helpful when you’re undergoing a brief period of economic hardship, it may not be as helpful when it comes to managing loans long-term, since interest may continue to accrue and neither option changes your loan repayment terms. Keep reading to learn more options beyond deferment and forbearance.

Forgiveness Programs

One source of federal student loan debt help are loan forgiveness programs. These programs essentially forgive a remaining portion of federal student loan debt after you meet certain requirements. That means you don’t have to pay it; you may also hear this referred to as loan cancellation or discharge.

Here are specifics about student loan forgiveness:

•   One of the most well-known loan forgiveness programs is the Public Service Loan Forgiveness program. This program offers federal student loan forgiveness for some people working full-time in qualifying public interest fields for 10 or more years.

Public Service Loan Forgiveness, also known as “PSLF,” offers federal student loan forgiveness for certain public servants (teachers, government workers, and some health professionals) and non-profit employees who qualify after 120 on-time qualifying payments.

Unfortunately, PSLF isn’t available to everyone. To qualify for Public Service Loan Forgiveness, you must work for a qualifying employer. Generally, government organizations and certain non-profits will be considered qualifying employers for the purpose of PSLF, but to be sure that your job counts for the PSLF program, you can submit a PSLF employment certification form to verify your employer’s eligibility for the program.

•   If you have a disability, you may qualify for student loan forgiveness.

•   If your school closed or misled you, your loan(s) may be discharged.

•   If you have declared bankruptcy, your debt may be canceled.

💡 Quick Tip: If you have student loans with variable rates, you may want to consider refinancing to lock in a fixed rate before rates rise. But if you’re willing to take a risk to potentially save on interest — and will be able to pay off your student loans quickly — you might consider a variable rate.

Options for Private Student Loan Borrowers

What you’ve just read covers how to get help with federal student loans. But what if you have private student loans? (Private loans are also an option for refinancing federal loans, but if you do so, be aware that you forfeit federal protections, such as forbearance, and if you refinance for an extended term, you may pay more in interest over the life of the loan.)

If your private student loans are proving challenging to pay, here are some ways you might move forward:

•   You could see whether refinancing your private loans with a different private loan can secure a more affordable payment.

•   See if your employer offers an assistance program. Some will match repayments of student loans up to a certain amount.

•   Retool your budget. The debt avalanche or debt snowball method might help you reframe your income and spending to help you get on top of your student loans.

•   Seek credit counseling. Learn more about that below.

Credit Counseling

If you are feeling overwhelmed or are in a quandary about how to proceed with your student loan debt, consulting with a nonprofit credit counselor could be a good idea. You can gain the expertise and insights of someone who specializes in this terrain and hear ideas for how you might handle the situation. One well-regarded example of such an agency is the National Foundation for Credit Counseling, or NFCC.

Here’s how credit counseling can help when you’re in this stressful situation:

•   A counselor can review your student loan debt and finances and develop a plan which you then manage on your own.

•   Another option may be to have the counselor join you on a phone call with the issuer of your student loans to discuss options.

Having a trusted professional in your corner can be a key source of support when you face challenges with your student loan debt.

Avoid Student Loan Scams

Here’s a sad fact: Yes, there are scammers out there, looking to take advantage of people who have student loan debt. They typically offer deals to help you get out of debt but wind up cheating you. Getting involved with these people can make a difficult situation even worse, so be cautious.

The two main kinds of scams to know about are as follows:

•   Student loan consolidation scams: In this ploy, a company promises to consolidate your federal loans. They charge you an upfront fee (never pay upfront fees, by the way) and then don’t do anything on your behalf. If you want to consolidate your federal student loans, you can do so for free at StudentLoans.gov.

•   Student loan debt relief scams: Companies that advertise or contact you, saying they can reduce or eliminate your debt, may be part of a scam. Above, you’ve read about the available options for managing your debt. There are no magic solutions to making the amount you owe vanish, so don’t be fooled by these promises.

How to spot these scams:

•   As noted, promises of making debt disappear to help with student loans are likely bogus.

•   Those that give you an urgent deadline to apply in order to eliminate debt are probably also fraudulent.

•   Requesting an upfront fee to apply for relief via the Department of Education is a signal that you are dealing with a scammer.

•   A company that says they are affiliated with the Department of Education but isn’t listed at StudentLoans.gov is one to avoid.

•   A business that says they need your FSA ID could well be a scammer.

Recommended: Student Loan Help Center

Student Loan Refinancing

As mentioned briefly above, another option for help with student loans may be refinancing them. For some borrowers, refinancing student loans could help lower monthly payments. However, if you refinance federal loans with private ones, keep in mind that you’ll forfeit federal protections and may, with an extended term, pay more interest over the life of the loan.

When you refinance your loans, a new private lender pays off your current federal and private student loans and offers you a new loan. The goal is to secure a better interest rate or better repayment terms, which can help you take control of your student loan debt. It’s one of several options you have available to get through what can be a challenging moment in your life.

Looking to lower your monthly student loan payment? Refinancing may be one way to do it — by extending your loan term, getting a lower interest rate than what you currently have, or both. (Please note that refinancing federal loans makes them ineligible for federal forgiveness and protections. Also, lengthening your loan term may mean paying more in interest over the life of the loan.) SoFi student loan refinancing offers flexible terms that fit your budget.

With SoFi, refinancing is fast, easy, and all online. We offer competitive fixed and variable rates.

SoFi Student Loan Refinance
If you are a federal student loan borrower, you should consider all of your repayment opportunities including the opportunity to refinance your student loan debt at a lower APR or to extend your term to achieve a lower monthly payment. Please note that once you refinance federal student loans you will no longer be eligible for current or future flexible payment options available to federal loan borrowers, including but not limited to income-based repayment plans or extended repayment plans.

SoFi Loan Products
SoFi loans are originated by SoFi Bank, N.A., NMLS #696891 (Member FDIC). For additional product-specific legal and licensing information, see SoFi.com/legal. Equal Housing Lender.

Non affiliation: SoFi isn’t affiliated with any of the companies highlighted in this article.

Financial Tips & Strategies: The tips provided on this website are of a general nature and do not take into account your specific objectives, financial situation, and needs. You should always consider their appropriateness given your own circumstances.

Third-Party Brand Mentions: No brands, products, or companies mentioned are affiliated with SoFi, nor do they endorse or sponsor this article. Third-party trademarks referenced herein are property of their respective owners.

External Websites: The information and analysis provided through hyperlinks to third-party websites, while believed to be accurate, cannot be guaranteed by SoFi. Links are provided for informational purposes and should not be viewed as an endorsement.

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Source: sofi.com

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One of my goals for the next two years is to write a book about personal finance. I want it to be a practical volume filled with great tips, while also exploring the personal side of money issues. The real trick is that I want it to be a short book — no quizzes, no jargon, no padding — and that’s not something that appeals to most publishers. Unfortunately (or perhaps fortunately), Michael Mihalik has already written a book similar to the one I have in mind!

The body of Debt is Slavery (and 9 Other Things I Wish My Dad Had Taught Me About Money) is just 88 pages packed with sensible advice about money. Like me, Mihalik made some dumb financial choices when he was young, and he spent years struggling to recover from his mistakes. Debt is Slavery is the distillation of all that he has learned about personal finance. If you’ve been reading Get Rich Slowly for a while, Mihalik’s lessons won’t be new, but he does an excellent job of presenting each point.

Related >> How Do You Budget for Experiences After Debt?

Here are the 10lessons the author wishes he had learned when he was younger:

  1. Debt is slavery. Mihalik discusses secured debt and unsecured debt, credit cards, mortgages, and more. He explains how working to pay off debt is little more than slavery: you’re working because you have to.
  2. Money is time. Those who have read Your Money or Your Life will be familiar with this concept, the trade-off between work and dollars. Whenever you buy something, you’re not just spending money on it — you’re literally spending time. Money is a representation of hours worked, and when you buy frivolous things, you’re squandering hours of your life.
  3. Possessions are a prison. This is a concept that I’ve only recently begun to understand. Kris and I have been on a de-cluttering kick lately. Slowly, and in stages, we’ve been purging much of what we own. This was painful at first, but has become more liberating with time. Mihalik has a few simple rules for controlling the stuff in your life — they’re excellent.
  4. Don’t let advertising brainwash you. I’ve written before about the insidious power of marketing. (And I have another entry on this subject coming soon.) Mihalik decries the Great Marketing Machine and its drive to hook us on status and fashion. Related >> Beware the Insidious Power of Marketing
  5. Money buys freedom. Money cannot buy happiness, but it can buy freedom. Money can give you more options. This concept is closely tied to “possessions are a prison.”
  6. Don’t sell your soul for a salary. Money should not be your primary motive for choosing a career. Consider job fulfillment, educational opportunities, and personal values. Try to find work you love.
  7. Own. Mihalik admits this advice might seem to contradict his previous notion that possessions are a prison. “Income-consuming assets can imprison us, he writes (echoing the good part of Robert Kiyosaki’s advice). “Income-producing assets set us free.” Don’t buy Stuff — instead, invest your money in things like mutual funds and real estate, things that make money and not consume it.
  8. Spend less than you earn. What can I say about this? It’s the fundamental law of wealth. Mihalik explains how to meet this objective by controlling your expenses. Related >> The Most Important Money Tip
  9. Save 50% of your salary. This is the most ambitious advice in the book, but I like it. Mihalik writes, “Have you ever asked yourself how people who immigrate to the United States can come here, get a low-paying job, and open their own business five years later? How can they do that, making around minimum wage, when you can’t, making more than minimum wage? They save. They save 50 percent or more of their salary. They don’t go into debt, they work hard and make other sacrifices, so they can buy their own business and control their financial destinies.”
  10. Control your money. In the book’s final chapter, Mihalik lays down an approach to making all of these goals workable. He explains how to eliminate debt, minimize expenses, and create a financial plan.

Finally, Mihalik admonishes his readers to start now!

Debt is Slavery is a great personal finance book, one of the best I’ve read. But I’m not the first personal finance blogger to have found it.

This book isn’t meant for those who are already debt-free. It’s meant for people who are in the early stages of their personal finance journey. If you’re struggling to make ends meet, if you’re living paycheck-to-paycheck, then this book is perfect. I also think it’s a great choice for recent high school or college graduates.

Source: getrichslowly.org

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You’ve spent the past few years being dumb with money. You realize that now. Your credit cards are maxed out, you’re living paycheck-to-paycheck, and you cannot see a way out. You plan to sell some stuff and to take a part-time job, but you’re looking for other ways to ease the burden. If you’re a homeowner, one option to consider is tapping your home equity to consolidate your consumer debts.

Definitions

Just what is home equity anyhow? Home equity is the difference between what your property is worth and what you owe on it. If your home is currently worth $200,000, for example, and your mortgage balance is $150,000, then you have $50,000 of equity.

Under normal circumstances, this equity remains untapped, increasing slowly with time. There are, however, a couple of ways to use home equity for other purposes:

  • A home equity loan (HEL) is essentially a second mortgage. The homeowner borrows a lump sum from the bank using the equity in their property as collateral. This sort of loan generally has a fixed interest rate and a term of ten to fifteen years.
  • A home equity line of credit (HELOC) is slightly different. HELOCs are revolving credit accounts, much like department store credit cards. The homeowner can borrow money repeatedly, as long as the HELOC’s credit limit is not exceeded. HELOCs generally have variable interest rates.

Traditionally, home equity loans (and lines of credit) have been used to fund property improvements such as remodels and additions. Over the past decade, however, it has become fashionable to use this money for consumer spending. Or for debt consolidation.

Robbing Peter to Pay Paul

Using home equity to pay off debt is an appealing option. You can obtain a loan with an interest rate in the neighborhood of 8%. Your credit cards probably charge twice that. If you’re paying on multiple credit cards, it’s likely that your combined payments are higher than the single payment on a home equity loan would be. And in most cases, interest paid on a home equity loan is tax deductible, the same as mortgage interest.

However, home equity loans are not a panacea. They don’t eliminate debt — they just shift it from high-interest to low-interest accounts. And if you fail to change the habits that led you into debt in the first place, you will likely accumulate even more debt in the long run. Most importantly, a home equity loan puts your house at risk — credit cards do not.

Despite these drawbacks, debt consolidation can be an excellent way to arrest the downward spiral and to take control of your finances.

My Story

I took out a home equity loan to pay off my credit cards.

In 1998, I had more than $16,000 in credit card debt. I applied for — and was granted — a home equity loan. I used this money to pay off my outstanding debt. I cut up my credit cards. When I was certain that my balances were paid in full, I cancelled the accounts.

I paid faithfully on this loan for five years (it had a ten year term). But when we bought our new home in 2004, the intricacies of the transaction (read: my lack of savings) forced me to fold my previous home loan into a new HELOC: $21,000 at 6%.

For a while, I made the interest-only minimum payments. Time passed. The minimum payments began to rise. I was puzzled until I noticed that my interest rate was also increasing. This was alarming, and it prompted me to attack this debt in earnest. In fact, just this month I mailed the final check to pay off my home equity line of credit.

Tapping home equity allowed me to get rid of high-interest credit cards and begin down the path of smart personal finance. It wasn’t an immediate turn-around — I took out a car loan and a couple of personal loans before realizing the error of my ways — but the change did happen, and this second mortgage was an important piece of the puzzle.

My Advice

After carrying a home equity loan for nearly a decade, I learned some things along the way:

  • The interest rate on your home equity loan should be lower than the interest on your credit cards. This is likely the case. However, if you have cards with low rates, you’re better off exercising the discipline to pay them down instead of taking out the loan.
  • I prefer a home equity loan to a home equity line of credit. The latter is more flexible — you can draw on it repeatedly if you need — but the interest rate is higher. Your goal is to reduce your debt burden, not increase it.
  • Arrange to have the bank pay off the balances on your cards when the loan is funded. If they’re not able to do this, make paying off your credit cards the first thing you do when you receive the money.
  • Destroy your cards. Burn them. Cut them up. Shred them. I believe it’s important to avoid credit cards completely until your home equity loan has been repaid.
  • As you receive statements from your credit card companies indicating $0 balances, call to cancel the cards. Many experts warn against closing credit card accounts because it dings your credit score. My credit score dropped some because of it, but I don’t care. I’d rather have a good credit score and not be tempted to new debt than have a great credit score and be piling up the problems.
  • Live without credit. Yes, you may need to buy a car on credit, but otherwise refuse to take on new debt. Taking on new debt simply defeats the purpose, and puts you in worse shape than before.

If you follow these guidelines, the equity in your home can be a valuable tool to help you escape from consumer debt.

Conclusion

There are some real dangers associated with using home equity (which is debt secured by your property) to pay down credit card debt (which is unsecured debt). If something goes wrong, you could lose your home.

If you do choose to go this route, please make a commitment to avoid credit cards (and other consumer debt) completely until you’ve finished repaying the loan. If you’re able to exercise a little self-discipline, a home equity loan can be an excellent way to put the brakes on bad habits, and a chance to make a fresh start.

Source: getrichslowly.org

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Having a good credit score is essential for financial stability and access to favorable loan terms. However, when debts go unpaid, they can end up in collections, damaging your credit profile. The good news is that you can take steps to deal with collections and negotiate settlements, paving the way for credit restoration. This article will discuss effective strategies to handle collections and reach favorable settlement agreements.

How to Handle a Debt Collector When They Call You

Even though there are a lot of good debt-collecting companies, there are also a fair number of scammers in the business. That’s why ensuring the person trying to claim the debt has a good reason to do so is important. Here’s how to make sure a bill collector has the right to get money from you:

  • Ask the collector for the collection company’s name, how to contact them, and, if your state needs it, the collector’s professional license number.
  • Contact your bank to find out if your account has been sold to a debt collector and to find out who bought your account.
  • Use the name and license number of the debt collector to search theNational Multistate Licencing System (NMLS) Consumer Access to make sure they are real.

How to Negotiate Settlements for Credit Restoration

Understand Your Rights and Validate the Debt

Before taking any action, it’s crucial to understand your rights as a consumer. The Fair Debt Collection Practices Act (FDCPA) specifies rules that collection agencies must abide by when collecting debts. Familiarize yourself with these regulations to ensure your rights are protected.

Next, validate the debt by requesting written verification from the collection agency. They must provide documentation proving that the debt is legitimate and they have the right to collect it. Take note of the details, including the original creditor, the outstanding balance, and any applicable interest or fees.

Review Your Credit Reports

Download copies of your credit reports from all 3 major credit bureaus – Experian, Equifax, and TransUnion. Carefully review each report to identify all accounts in collections. Verify that the information is accurate and up to date, as outdated or incorrect information could harm your credit score.

If you notice any discrepancies or inaccuracies, dispute them directly with the credit bureau. They are required to investigate and remove any erroneous information from your credit report.

Establish Communication with the Collection Agency

Once you have validated the debt and reviewed your credit reports, it’s time to establish communication with the collection agency. It’s essential to maintain a professional tone during all interactions. Start by sending a letter requesting debt validation and express your willingness to resolve the matter.

Negotiate a Settlement

Negotiation can be a powerful tool for reaching a favorable settlement when dealing with collections. Here are some tips to help you negotiate effectively:

  1. Offer a lump-sum payment: Collection agencies are often willing to accept a reduced amount if you can pay a lump sum. Start by offering an amount lower than the original balance, and be prepared to negotiate.
  2. Get the agreement in writing: Once you have agreed upon a settlement amount, ensure you receive written confirmation from the collection agency. The agreement should clearly state that the settled amount will satisfy the debt in full and that they will report it as “paid” or “settled” to the credit bureaus.
  3. Negotiate removal of the collection from your credit report: If you have successfully negotiated a debt settlement, you can try to negotiate with the collection agency to remove the collection entry from your credit report entirely. While not guaranteed, some agencies may agree to do so in exchange for payment.

Even if the account status is marked as “paid in full” or “paid as agreed”, it will help. The account will still appear on your credit report, but it may hurt your score less as time passes.

Monitor Your Credit Score and Report

After settling the debt, monitor your credit score and report to ensure the collection is accurately updated. The credit bureaus may take some time to reflect the changes, so be patient. Regularly checking your credit reports will help you track your progress and ensure the restoration of your credit score.

Conclusion

Dealing with collections can be stressful, but you can negotiate settlements and restore your credit with the right strategies. Remember to understand your rights, validate the debt, review your credit reports, and establish open communication with the collection agency. You can take significant steps toward credit restoration by negotiating a settlement and monitoring your credit. Remember, there is always time to take control of your financial situation and improve your credit standing.

About The Author:

Lyle Solomon has extensive legal experience, in-depth knowledge, and experience in consumer finance and writing. He has been a member of the California State Bar since 2003. He graduated from the University of the Pacific’s McGeorge School of Law in Sacramento, California, in 1998 and currently works for the Oak View Law Group in California as a principal attorney.

Source: creditabsolute.com

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Apache is functioning normally

The Friday “Ask the Readers” column generally follows a set format: I introduce the topic, share a reader e-mail, give my best advice, and then ask for your feedback. Today’s column is a little different. Sarah sent me a 1000-word question, and rather than write any sort of response, I’m just going to let her have the entire space. Everything that follows is from Sarah.

I have a question for other GRS readers. It’s a simple question: Should I sell my car? It actually seems to have a very simple answer: Yes.

I keep writing lists and outlining the reasons why I should sell my car (and why I shouldn’t), and the balance lies very clearly in favor of selling my car. And yet I’m having the hardest time selling my car.

Why? I’m a practical, logical, pragmatic person. Why is this so hard to do? Why is selling my car so difficult? Even with the facts laid out, staring me in the face, I’m having the hardest time selling my car.

Why I Bought a Car in the First Place

I used to live completely car-free. I lived in different cities and only walked, bused, or biked to get around — occasionally living the high life and taking a taxi when I felt like being luxurious. And then I moved to California.

I bought a car last year. I purchased a 2010 Toyota Matrix from a dealer, priced at $17,490, with a $1000 rebate for being a recent college grad. The Kelly Blue Book value of the car, at new, was $20,049. My purchase price was $16,490. With taxes, registration, and fees, I forked over $19,009. As a somewhat-savvy consumer, I secured a three-year financing plan with 0% interest.

I bought the car because I lived 40 miles from my job, commuting an hour each way (through San Francisco, across the Golden Gate Bridge), and there wasn’t sufficient public transportation to get me to and from my job.

I’ve now owned (and paid for) the car for 12 months, spending $6800 on car payments. I have $12,200 left to pay on the car over a two-year period.

The cost of the car has been unbelievable. In one year, these are the costs:

  • Car payments — $529 per month
  • 20,000 miles total
    • 25 mpg average
    • gas price is $3.15 in California
    • $2520 for gas, or
    • $210 per month in gasoline
  • Maintenance for one year (four tune-ups at $109 each) — $436 ($36 per month for maintenance)
  • Insurance — $109 per month for insurance (AAA)
  • Bridge Tolls (crossing the Golden Gate Bridge every day costs $5) — $80 per month
  • Parking. I’m lucky to have free parking, mostly, unless I drive downtown — $50 per month is my average for parking

Every month, I spend about $1014 on driving and owning the car. $1014! This is roughly one third of my take-home income. What would I do with $1014 per month?!?

In addition, I have a substantial amount of debt from undergraduate and graduate student loans (in the realm of $80,000) that I’m currently working hard to pay off. The student loan payments are $679 per month. I struggle to make the car payment and the student loan payment each month.

Today: The Current Situation

In November, I moved back to San Francisco, because I couldn’t stand the long commute. Commuting through city traffic is tiring and psychologically draining; I quickly remembered why I dislike driving so much. In contrast, San Francisco is a hub of public transportation options — sometimes better or worse, depending on the neighborhood that you live in.

I now live eight miles from my job in Sausalito. The drive takes about 15-20 minutes, depending on traffic. Parking at my job is easy, but parking in San Francisco is a nightmare — it can take up to 40 minutes to find a parking spot. I have the option of purchasing a parking spot, but those cost upwards of $300 in a city like San Francisco, and I can’t stomach how much I’m already spending on the car alone.

I now have alterative means for getting to work. For example, I can bike to work a few days per week, depending on the day and the weather. There’s also a bus line that goes to and from my work on the hour, and takes about 30-40 minutes to get to work (it doubles my commute time, but I don’t have to worry about parking, driving, or concentrating on the road).

The (Easy) Conclusions

I worry that it’s a mistake to sell my car after owning it for one year. My parents tell me that I should wait it out for the next two years, buckle down, and just finish making the payments — because I need a car and can’t possibly live without one. People suggest that it’s foolish to buy a brand new car and sell a car within the first year of ownership.

However, I also think that sunk costs are sunk costs. What I’ve already spent on the car is gone; it’s what I spend in the future that’s still up for determination. I think it makes sense for me to sell my car.

Here are some reasons I think I should sell my car:

  • Living in a city — with ample public transportation, alternative car-sharing options, bicycle riding, and walking — makes having a car a luxury, not a necessity.
  • Getting rid of $12,200 of unpaid debt is a good thing.
  • There are additional costs to car ownership — insurance, gas, parking, maintenance — that will continue to add up over time. (To the tune of about $450 per month.)
  • The current value of my car ($14,000) is more than I owe on my payments ($12,200)

But wait! There’s more!

  • A car is a depreciating asset, and will not add any value over time. Struggling to make these payments does not help me reduce or eliminate debt in other areas of my life.
  • Public transportation to work costs $4 each way, or approximately $160 per month.
  • If I also choose to use a car-sharing program on the weekends, I would spend between $50 and $75 for a weekend use — but the cost would be elective, and not fixed.
  • If I don’t spend the money on the car, I can spend the money on other things that are more important.

It seems painfully clear, on paper, that I should sell my car. And yet I get in and drive it every single day — to teach swim lesson after work, to dinner parties, to events, on trips to Tahoe, on excursions. I am afraid of selling my car. Psychologically and emotionally, I’m attached to it. I also stubbornly don’t want to admit I made a mistake in buying the car in the first place.

So tell me, fellow GRS readers, what should I do? Can I afford to sell my car? Can I afford not to?

J.D.’s note: Though I don’t have room for my traditional long reply, I’ll just chime in to say I’m glad that Sarah mentioned sunk costs. That’s a very important thing to remember in making these sorts of decisions. (What you’ve spent already is irrelevant; it’s what you spend going forward that matters.) And I think her situation highlights why it’s often best to buy a cheap used car than a brand-new one. I think a $2,000 beater would be perfect for her.

Source: getrichslowly.org