Today we’ll check out “Directors Mortgage,” a Portland, Oregon-based mortgage lender that says it “takes a community-first, people-focused approach” to the home loan business.
This means you can actually sit down and speak with a human being about your homeownership goals instead of filling out an online form, assuming you prefer face-to-face interaction.
And those human beings are apparently happy because the company is consistently recognized as one of the best companies to work for in Oregon. So hopefully they’ll make you happy too.
They are also one of the top philanthropic businesses in the area and involved with many of the local sports teams, including youth teams and pros like the Portland Thorns and Portland Timbers.
Let’s learn more about this local mortgage lender to see if they could be a good fit for you.
Largest privately owned mortgage company headquartered in Oregon
Locally owned and operated in Lake Oswego since 1998
Offer home purchase loans, refinances, construction loans, and reverse mortgages
Currently licensed to do business in eight Western states
Funded nearly $1.5 billion in home loans last year
Also operate a wholesale lending division called USA Direct Funding
Directors Mortgage is a retail direct-to-consumer mortgage lender that was founded back in 1998 by current CEO Mark J. Hanna.
They are one of the largest independent mortgage companies located in the Northwest, and say they don’t take a “one-size fits all” approach like some of the bigger banks.
They offer many different types of loans, including home purchase financing, mortgage refinances, construction loans, and reverse mortgages.
Directors Mortgage appears to be focused on the Western United States, with licensing and physical branches in eight states, including Arizona, California, Colorado, Idaho, New Mexico, Oregon, Utah, and Washington.
Based on the most recent HMDA data, they were most active in Oregon, where they originated nearly a billion in home loans.
They also funded about $500 million in mortgages in the state of Washington, and appear to be growing in the other states where they’re licensed.
Roughly 45% of their overall volume comes from home purchase loans, with the remainder from refinances or reverse mortgages.
Aside from their main retail lending channel, they also operate Direct Portfolio Lending (DPL), which specializes in funding for clients who don’t fit the conventional mortgage mold.
Their offerings include investor fix & flip loans, bridge loans, spec construction loans, and commercial bridge loans, with interest-only options available.
Another brand under Directors is “Mortgage Monkey,” which specializes on providing home loan financing to the LGBTQ+ community.
They also operate a wholesale lending division called USA Direct Funding for mortgage broker partners.
How to Apply with Directors Mortgage
You can apply in person, over the phone, or via a secure online application
Once signed up you can eSign disclosures and securely upload any documents needed for processing
Their in-house underwriting and appraisal system allows borrowers to close quickly
After approval, you’ll be able to track loan progress via the online borrower portal from any device
While Directors Mortgage is big on the human element of mortgage lending, they aren’t a stranger to the latest technology.
In fact, if you wish it’s possible to complete a digital mortgage application without any human assistance whatsoever.
Either way, you’ve got options, whether you prefer to apply via phone, in-person, or from the convenience of your smartphone.
In terms of tech, they allow you to eSign disclosures, scan/upload necessary documents, and track loan progress 24/7 via the secure online borrower portal.
And their in-house loan underwriting and expedited appraisal system facilitates fast closings for borrowers.
Those who are buying a home can also take advantage of the so-called “Pre-Approval Advantage Certificate.”
It provides a reimbursement of up to $5,000 earnest money (to the buyer or seller) in the event the purchase agreement is cancelled due to financing.
That could give you the edge in a competitive housing market where bidding wars are the norm.
Loan Programs Offered by Directors Mortgage
Home purchase loans
Refinance loans: rate and term, cash out, debt consolidation, streamline
Home construction loans
Renovation loans
Reverse mortgages
Conventional loans backed by Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac
FHA/USDA/VA loans
Jumbo home loans
Relocation loans
One thing Directors Mortgage isn’t short of is home loan programs.
They seem to offer just about everything, whether it’s a home purchase, construction loan, bridge loan, refinance, or a reverse mortgage.
You can get a conforming loan, jumbo, or a government-backed loan, such as an FHA loan or VA loan.
They also have a dedicated relocation team if you happen to be moving that can help with all the details, such as sending reimbursable relocation costs directly to your employer immediately after closing.
You can get a loan on any major residential property type, including a single-family home or condo, vacation home, or multi-unit investment property.
They appear to mostly originate 30-year and 15-year fixed mortgages, along with adjustable-rate mortgages like the 5/1 and 7/1 ARM.
Directors Mortgage Rates
One area where we could use some more information is in the pricing department.
Directors Mortgage doesn’t openly advertise its mortgage interest rates online like some other lenders.
As such, it’s impossible to know how competitive they are without first speaking to a loan officer about pricing and lender fees.
So if you’re planning to use Directors Mortgage, be sure to take the time to get a quote first, including what lender fees they charge if any.
Then put in the time to get quotes from other banks, lenders, and mortgage brokers to see where they stand.
While service is certainly important, so is cost if you plan to keep your mortgage for many years to come.
Directors Mortgage Reviews
On Zillow, Directors Mortgage has an excellent 4.95-star rating out of a possible 5 from about 100 customer reviews.
Many indicate that the interest rate received was lower than expected, which is good news on the loan pricing front.
On Google, their Lake Oswego location has a 4.3-star rating out of 5 from about 33 reviews, also a fairly strong rating.
You can also find ratings for other locations on both Google and Yelp, so take the time to review the location(s) nearest you.
Lastly, they are Better Business Bureau accredited, and have been since 2006.
They currently enjoy an ‘A+’ rating based on complaint history, for which just one has been closed in the past three years.
In summary, Directors Mortgage could be a viable candidate for both new home buyers and existing homeowners looking for better terms on their mortgage.
They offer a pre-approval guarantee that could give buyers a leg up, and if you want to work with a local, independent mortgage company, they’re big in the Pacific Northwest.
Directors Mortgage Pros and Cons
The Good
Can apply for a mortgage online, by phone, or in-person
Offer the latest technology and in-house underwriting for quick closings
Wide product selection to choose from including jumbos and reverse mortgages
Pre-Approval Advantage Certificate for home buyers looking for an edge
Excellent customer reviews
A+ BBB rating, accredited business since 2006
Locally owned and operated for those who like to support local
Lots of physical branches in the Pacific Northwest
Free mortgage calculators and mortgage glossary on their website
When Ange Matthews started her first full-time position as an associate recruiter in 2007, she earned $40,000. Graduating amid the Great Recession, “It was really hard to find a job,” says Matthews. After several months of searching, she accepted “the best option available.”
As she lived in her mom’s basement in New York City, Matthews did the math on how long it would take to get promoted and to pay her student loans at her current salary.
“I’d have to work here for 10 years just to get to $50,000,” she says, referring to the salary she could earn in her current role.
That’s when Matthews knew she had to do something different. She began investing in2008 and today is an investment coach based in Dallas. Here’s what Matthews is doing to build generational wealth for her children, family and community.
What inspired Matthews to start building generational wealth?
Matthews realized after finishing school that she needed a way to make more money, as well as a way to build personal finance and investing skills to grow her wealth.
Already working 60- to 70-hour weeks, a part-time gig on top of her full-time job was out of the question. She initially built a side hustle making and selling jewelry in New York City markets but ultimately wanted to harness the power of investing and compound interest.
Compound interest consists of both the money you earn on your savings or investment and the money those profits earn.In other words,says Matthews,“your money comes back with friends.”
To get started,Matthews created her first budget and set up an income-based repayment program for her student loans. At the time, the interest those student loans were charging was less than the average return of the S&P 500. So she saved money by making a reduced payment and then investing the savings.
Matthews also realized that she was comfortable living with a smaller emergency fund if it meant she could begin investing. Creating a plan for her money allowed Matthews to excitedly make progress toward her goals: reducing her educational debt slowly and investing in building wealth for her family. She eventually used the money made in her brokerage accounts toward the down payment on a home and the care of a parent.
Matthews encourages people to think about who they want to help and whether that help will come from salary, savings or investments. Assets with monetary value, from stocks and bonds to property, life insurance, and retirement accounts, can be passed down as generational wealth. Matthews calls generational wealth “100-year money,” or money that helps provide for your children, your children’s children or someone else important in your life.
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What’s the happy investor method?
It can feel challenging to start budgeting and investing, especially if you’re overwhelmed by the financial system or have experienced generational or financial trauma.
“When folks think about money, personal finance and financial empowerment, as well as investing, it gets really disempowering,” says Matthews.
One way to keep from feeling overwhelmed is to focus on what motivates you, Matthews says. Her happy investor method focuses on identifying money goals that spark your joy. She also suggests reframing those goals in terms of how you’re making a difference in your life and the life of your community. The desire to invest on behalf of someone you love in order to eventually pass down wealth can be a strong motivation to get started.
She emphasizes that the happy approach is not about cutting out that latte, living without joys or pleasures, or diminishing the quality of your life. Instead, she wants the process to be engaging and motivating, if not fun.
“The criteria for success isn’t necessarily to be a multimillionaire,” says Matthews. “We want to make sure we are who we hope to be on the other side” of a financial decision.
What kinds of strategies has Matthews used to create savings for her kids?
Turning those 100-year money goals into reality is especially important to Matthews now that she’s the parent of a 2-year-old and a 5-year-old. Her approach to investing for her kids is to invest passively through custodial investment accounts.
Passive investing
Passive investing involves purchasing securities that mirror stock market indexes and holding them long-term. Matthews places her money in index or exchange-traded funds that track the stock market. That way, says Matthews, “your money is growing with or without your day-to-day involvement.” Passive investing is a lower-maintenance and lower-risk strategy than active investing, which entails researching, buying and selling individual stocks to beat the market.
Custodial brokerage and retirement accounts
Matthews puts her passive investing approach into action by opening and funding custodial investment accounts for her children.
According to the U.S. Social Security Administration, “This Act allows donors to make gifts to minors that are free of tax burdens.” Meaning, adults may make tax-free contributions to a UGMA or UTMA account up to the IRS gift limit, or $17,000 in 2023. The money invested in these accounts may be withdrawn at any time without penalty.
Matthews intends for the funds in her children’s brokerage accounts to be used for life-changing experiences throughout their lives; the funds aren’t earmarked for retirement or education.
Custodial retirement accounts, such as a custodial IRA or custodial Roth IRA, are owned by a minor, but an adult manages the account and all its assets. If your child has earned income — say through babysitting, a retail job, or a lawn-mowing gig — a custodial retirement account is another option for building generational wealth, and it comes with specific tax advantages. For instance, contributions to a Roth IRA are made after taxes and grow tax-free.
Custodial accounts can be a good way to introduce kids to money concepts and help them start tracking how the market performs. To get her kids excited about investing, Matthews slightly departs from her passive investing strategy: She and her kids buy stock in toy, film, and consumer goods companies that her family uses and can relate to. It’s deliberate and sparks joy in all of them.
And above all, says Matthews, “We just really make it fun and light for them.”
I wanted to title this post, “Can you be The Interestings,” with my writer’s craft book group (we discuss books based on writing analytics rather than whether characters and stories are likable). The book’s main character is just ordinary, with an ordinary job and ordinary talents. But Jules has some extraordinary (“interesting”) friends, friends that she met long ago at a summer camp for the arts.
Because Jules hasn’t pursued her art as a career, and she probably wouldn’t have made a ton of money at it in any case, she often finds herself terribly envious of her friends that have; notably, her friends whose talents have made them a huge financial success. (The male half of the couple seems to be loosely modeled off Matt Groening; his animated series quickly becomes huge and he’s rich within months of winning a network deal.)
In one particularly ugly scene, the main character bemoans their recent transformation from regular struggling artists to fabulously wealthy, comparing her own pleasure at the great deal at the kebab place (“it comes with free salad AND flat bread!”) to their never, ever again needing to worry about such things. To how easy it is for them to pick up the check and how ridiculous it is for her to do so. How she can’t see them the same way any more and surely! Her friends will look down from their Tower of Rich and shake their heads at their poor friend, still walking up stairs in her apartment, still picking up her own dry cleaning. Her husband sympathizes for a while, but loses his temper at one point, saying something along the lines of, “we’re not boring people just because we’re not rich! Do you hate being married to ordinary me? Get a grip!”
Jules may be more extreme in her statements than most of us, but we probably all feel like that sometimes.
I have a few friends who, in the course of our relationship, have gone from ordinary middle-income to bona-fide rich. One of my dearest friends’ husbands sold his little company to a huge corporation. My brother, who has worked for Intel most of his adulthood, has been doing very well. He bought a new house a few months ago and when I visited, I was shocked to find it was kind of mansion-y. Another friend I met at a writing conference, I discovered after I’d been chatting for hours, had enough money to be an angel investor in independent films. The sort of conversations that start out, “I’ve been working on this novel,” (happens all the time in my life) and end, “I’ve been thinking of buying the movie rights to this famous author’s novel.” (Never happens.)
I found myself, like Jules, sometimes re-evaluating ordinary money conversations after I’d had them.
My friend who’d gone from middle-income to rich was used to hearing about my money woes. Not that I’d complain all the time, but I’d remark on how my husband and I were arguing over money, or say I couldn’t afford to go out to coffee, or worry about a freelance check that was overdue and oh my goodness I was broke until then. Now I’d start into those conversations and at some point remember that she could sympathize but not relate, any more.
My friend is a good enough friend that I know she still does sympathize, and luckily things have been better for me, finance-wise, in the past year so I rarely have the situation where I have to say “no” due to finances. She’s not the sort given to social extravagances, anyway; when we go out, it is to plays, coffee shops or small cafes where we order small meals. We’re absolutely OK.
But what about rich people in your family? Can you still relate to them?
I found my brother’s case a good lens through which to look at this rich/middling dichotomy. His young adulthood was challenging and, when he was a new dad, I know he did struggle with money a lot. I know there were arguments in his first you’ve blown your food budget for two weeks. Your friend gets you a very expensive gift for your birthday and then complains to you about how a third friend gave her something handmade — which was your best idea for a suitable gift in return.
Sometimes friendships can’t work out with such out-sized differences. But it’s likely those friendships were too shaky anyway; maybe even based on the wrong things. If friendships are based on your personal relationship and not your relationship to things, places, and entertainment, you can weather the wealth of a friend.
By Peter AndersonLeave a Comment – The content of this website often contains affiliate links and I may be compensated if you buy through those links (at no cost to you!). Learn more about how we make money. Last edited July 18, 2011.
When it comes to becoming a beginning investor, one thing that can hold a lot of people back is the fact that starting to invest can feel like it’s so confusing, with so many options out there, diffferent types of investments and investment classes. Where should you start? Should you hold mutual funds only? Index funds? What about ETFs?
As part of my continuing efforts to educate myself as to what the different options out there are I’ve recently been reading up on a class of investments that are relatively recent innovations – the Exchange Traded Fund.
What exactly is an ETF? It’s basically the investing world lovechild of a mutual fund and an individual stock where you have the diversification of a mutual fund, but also the ability to trade the investment like a stock on a stock exchange.
What Is An ETF?
Exchange Traded Funds have been around since the early 1993. In January 1993 the first ETF was launched, the Standard & Poor’s Depository Receipts (SPDR) ETF. The ETF basically was setup to track the performance of the S&P 500 index. In 1995 S&P introduced a second mid-cap ETF, and after that other companies began launching a number of ETFs to track avariety of different exchanges/indexes and asset classes.
So in it’s most basic form, what is an ETF? An ETF looks a lot like a mutual fund in that it holds a variety of investments for you, but it can also trade like a stock on the stock exchange. ETFs allow the individual investor to diversify their holdings while still giving them the flexibility to be able to trade during the day, unlike a mutual fund.
Most ETFs are set up to track a given index like the S&P 500, so they would be classified for the most part as passive investments – since most of them are not actively managed. Because they are relatively passive in nature they also tend to have lower costs than some other investment options.
Reasons To Use An ETF
There are a variety of reasons why you may want to invest in ETFs.
Low cost: ETFs in general are going to have lower costs than some other investment products because most aren’t actively managed, and because ETFs don’t have to sell securities to accomodate shareholder purchases and redemptions. They also typtically have lower marketing and other fees.
Flexibility for buying and selling: ETFs can be bought or sold at any time during the trading day at whatever the current market price is. By comparison mutual funds can only be traded at the end of the trading day. Also, since they are publicly traded securities, more advanced investment strategies like hedging strategies, stop and limit orders and purchasing on margin and short selling can be done.
Tax efficiency: ETFs in general will usually have lower capital gains because of low securities turnover in their portfolios. They also don’t have to sell securities to meet investor redemptions, which further enhances tax efficiency.
Diversification exposure to different markets: Like index funds most ETFs will provide instant diversification across an entire index, while still giving you access to a variety of different industry specific and commodity ETFs that aren’t available easily elsewhere.
So as you can see there are a good number of reasons why to consider ETFs for your portfolio. There are also things to be wary of including the fact that you’ll have to pay brokerage fees every time you purchase or trade your ETFs.
Which Is A Better Option For Me: Index Fund Or ETF?
So since ETFs and indexed mutual funds are so similar in that they’re both usually tracking the performance of a given market or exchange, which one should you consider adding to your portfolio?
Mike over at ObliviousInvestor.com breaks it down in a post on ETFs vs. Index Funds, and gives the answer of “it depends”.
In summary,
the longer your time horizon,
the greater the amount you’re investing, and
the greater the difference between the expense ratios,
…the more sense it makes to use ETFs.
It really is going to depend on a variety of factors, including how long you’re investing for, how much you’re planning on investing, the expense ratios for the funds vs ETF, as well as how often you plan on rebalancing your portfolio as ETFs will usually carry brokerage fees/etc for rebalancing and/or purchasing new shares.
Conclusion
Exchange Traded Funds can be a great idea for the average investor, especially for those who want a few more investment options when it comes to commodities and the like. The fact that they have low costs, are tax efficient and that they can give you some great diversification while allowing you to do some more traditional trading strategies all mean that the ETF will be popular for years to come.
For a more in depth look at ETFs, check out the tutorial linked below, or to find a brokerage where you can open an account and buy ETFs, check out our list of discount brokerages.
Are you currently investing with or using an ETF? Why are you using an ETF as part of your investing strategy? Are you avoiding ETFs for any reason? Tell us your thoughts on Exchange Traded Funds in the comments.
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Are you tired of having credit card bills? Do you wish you could get out of debt once and for all?
If you want get out of debt permanently, first consider this: Debt is not a financial problem. Hard to believe, but true.
Debt is actually a personal problem that masquerades in financial clothing. That is why so many people have persistent problems with debt. They look outward for financial solutions, when the true solution is found by looking inward.
Planning a Permanent Debt Solution
Defining your debt problem correctly is critical to solving it.
That is where most debtors run into trouble. They mistakenly define debt as a financial problem and develop financial solutions. That is why their debt returns shortly after paying it off. They fail to identify the root cause of debt, opening the door to repeating the vicious cycle.
For a debt solution to be effective your plan of attack needs to be based on principles that actually work. Unfortunately, when you just pay off your balances you relieve the pain, but the underlying condition that put you in debt in the first place still lurks under the surface, ready to return.
Let’s face it, the real causes of overspending are your personal habits and attitudes. In other words, the true solution is personal — not financial. That is a key, and understanding this principle is what will make or break your success in slaying the debt monster for good.
Masking The Problem
When you get a headache what is the logical response? You reach to the medicine cabinet for immediate pain relief. Unfortunately, the various pills do nothing to cure the underlying disease: they merely treat the symptom. The cause could be excessive stress, brain cancer, dehydration, eye strain, or any number of other issues. By taking a pill you’ve treated the symptom — not the underlying cause.
The same is true with debt. Everyone knows they need to make more and spend less to solve their debt problems. So they pursue financially driven solutions to relieve financial symptoms. It seems logical on the surface.
Whether you choose to consolidate your credit card debt to lower interest rates or you choose any of the quick-payoff strategies (inheritance, gift, sell an asset, bankruptcy, home equity line of credit, or refinancing), the reality is you are treating the symptom and not creating a lasting cure.
Your financial problems are merely the accumulated reflection of the many small financial mistakes you are making on a daily basis — often without knowing any better. That’s why teaching a debtor to spend less and earn more is like telling someone to lose weight by eating less and exercising more. Everyone already knows that is the answer. The difficult part is not knowing what to do, but actually getting it done. The solution lies in your daily habits and attitudes.
[Related Article: 3 People Who Dug Out of Deep Debt]
Money Breakthroughs
I first discovered this approach to debt recovery in my work as a money coach. I started out making the same mistakes as everyone else. I thought debt problems were financial, so I coached my clients to financial solutions. The lackluster results proved it was the wrong approach.
The breakthrough came when I noticed my wealthy clients had mirror opposite attitudes and behaviors compared to my get-out-of-debt clients. For example:
My wealthy clients viewed their financial situation from a position of self-responsibility, whereas my debt clients were victims of their finances.
My wealthy clients planned their finances, but my debt clients had no plan.
My wealthy clients organized their plans around delayed gratification, whereas my debt clients pursued instant gratification.
My wealthy clients associated their self-worth with intrinsic values, while my debt clients associated self-worth with extrinsic stuff.
These are just 4 examples from a long list of opposing traits. They are guidelines or tendencies that generally hold true. While there may be personal variation, on the whole the patterns were unmistakable. These mirror opposite attitudes produced mirror opposite financial results in life.
[Related Article: 7 Ways to Avoid a Debt Relapse]
Amazingly,when I applied these principles, coaching habitudes instead of specific financial actions, the debt problems solved themselves over time.
This is obvious when you think about it. Your daily financial decisions result from your habits and attitudes that drive those decisions. For example, consider the following choices and their obvious financial implications:
Do you buy fancy coffees throughout the day or do you make a pot of your favorite coffee in the morning and bring it with you?
Do you lease a new car every few years or maintain your reliable used car?
Do you dine out frequently or cook healthy meals at home?
Are you a minimalist or do you desire the latest designer fashions?
Do you shop to get what you need or do you shop for pleasure and recreation?
When you focus on financial solutions, you treat the symptom instead of the cause. When you focus on your attitudes and habits, you focus on the cause, and the symptom takes care of itself automatically without any self-discipline.
Let me be clear — this isn’t a quick fix. The results you produce from this approach will occur gradually over time. Just as it took time to accumulate the debt, it takes time to unwind it when you work with root causes.
However, the solutions are as permanent as the new attitudes and habits you adopt — and that makes all the difference.
The truth is the financial results of your life aren’t dependent upon how much money you make. Instead, they depend on how well you manage the money you already have. This article series will show you the easiest way to adopt wealthy habits and attitudes and be smarter with your money so that you can get out of debt — permanently.
[Related Article: 5 Ways to Get Out of Debt: Which Will Work for You?]
Todd Tresidder is a financial coach and consumer advocate. His unconventional take on worn financial topics has appeared in the Wall Street Journal, Investor’s Business Daily, Smart Money magazine, Yahoo Finance, and more. He’s authored 5 financial education books including How Much Money Do I Need To Retire?, Variable Annuity Pros and Cons, and the 4% Rule and Safe Withdrawal Rates In Retirement.
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By Peter Anderson3 Comments – The content of this website often contains affiliate links and I may be compensated if you buy through those links (at no cost to you!). Learn more about how we make money. Last edited December 9, 2019.
For a while now on this site you’ve heard me extolling the virtues of the Roth IRA, talking about how I think it should be a part of any person’s investment plan, and how it’s a great tool to help diversify your retirement savings.
When I have written the posts I’ve mostly focused on the Roth IRA because that’s the main avenue we’ve taken part in for our own investing. We would have liked to invest more, but some unforeseen (and foreseen – the baby) medical events in the past couple of years have kept us from investing too much.
Now that we’re starting to have a bit more free money to save and invest we’re looking more at the options we have available to us.
My company recently made some changes to the company 401(k)plan moving to a new plan administrator. With the move we’re going to have a lot better low cost investing options in our plan with some good index funds from Vanguard now available, as well as there now being a completely new Roth 401(k)option.
Because we now have more and better choices our investing path will be slightly different. Here’s what we’ll be doing now:
Invest in Roth IRA to max: First, we would like to invest in our Roth IRA to the max of $6000 per investor. So that means $6000 for each of us, my wife and I. Little Carter has no earned income so he’ll have to wait. 🙂
Invest in company 401(k) & Roth 401(k)to max: Next we’ll be investing in my company 401(k)and Roth 401(k)to the max. For 2020 that means a combined total of $19,500.
Investing in taxable accounts: Next we would be investing in taxable investments, most likely through an account with Betterment.com, M1Finance or one of the other robo-advisors. That may not be happening much this year since we’re also trying to save for a down payment for a house.
The History Of The Roth 401k
From Wikipedia:
The Roth 401(k) is a type of retirement savings plan. It was authorized by the United States Congress under the Internal Revenue Code, section 402A,[1] and represents a unique combination of features of the Roth IRA and a traditional 401(k) plan. As of January 1, 2006 U.S. employers have been free to amend their 401(k) plan document to allow employees to elect Roth IRA type tax treatment for a portion or all of their retirement plan contributions. The same change in law allowed Roth IRA type contributions to 403(b) retirement plans. The Roth retirement plan provision was enacted as a provision of the Economic Growth and Tax Relief Reconciliation Act of 2001 (EGTRRA 2001).
Roth 401(k) Contribution Limits
The Roth 401(k) is subject to the same contribution limit as the regular 401(k). For 2020 that means there is a contribution limit of $19,500. If you are 50 or older the limit is bumped up to $26,000.
Note: The Roth 401(k) and the regular 401(k) are subject to the same contribution limit. In other words the total contribution for both account types is $19,500. You can’t contribute $19,500 to one account and then an additional $19,500 to the other. So the Roth 401(k) offers no new opportunity to invest, just the opportunity for a different tax treatment than the regular 401k.
Roth 401(k) Withdrawals
I would never suggest taking money out of a retirement plan before you actually retire, but in some cases of hardship and so forth it may be necessary. Here are the rules for taking distributions from your Roth 401k(k) account.
Qualifying Distributions
In order to withdraw your money without tax penalties you need to have had the account for at least 5 years as well as being at least 59½ or disabled. Required minimum distributions begin at age 70 1/2, unlike the Roth IRA which has no RMD.
Non-Qualifying Distributions
If you need to take the money out for other reasons and you don’t meet the above criteria (5 year account/59.5 years), then you will see penalties. For the Roth 401(k) you have to report taxable income in proportion to the account’s earnings when you take a distribution.
For example, if 70% of the money in the account is from your contributions and another 30% is from earnings, your distribution will be 30% subject to taxes and penalties even if the amount you withdraw is less than the amount of your contributions. This sets it apart from the Roth IRA which allows tax free withdrawals of your contributions at any time. So again, there will be a 10% penalty and the regular tax rate charged on the proportion of your early withdrawal that is attributable to earnings.
The situations where you can take a non-qualified distribution are limited, so seek tax advice when heading down that road.
Benefits Of Roth 401k
The Roth 401(k) has several benefits that should be noted.
Higher contribution limits than the Roth IRA: While the Roth 401(k) has the same after tax contributions, it has a higher contribution level than the Roth IRA which tops out at $6000/year.
Rollover option: If you leave a company you can roll a Roth 401(k) directly over into a Roth IRA.
Good for high income individuals: High income individuals are limited when it comes to contributing to a Roth IRA. No such limitations exist for Roth 401(k).
Post tax contributions mean you pay no more tax: Like the Roth IRA you won’t be paying any further tax on the money or earnings in retirement. It’s a good way to diversify tax risk.
The Roth 401(k) combines some of the great parts of the Roth IRA – the tax free withdrawals at retirement – with the higher contribution limits of the traditional 401k. Because of that it’s a great choice for a wide variety of investors, as long as their company’s plan offers the Roth 401(k)as an option – which not all of them do.
Do you have a Roth 401(k)option in your plan, and are you taking advantage of it? Tell us your thoughts on the Roth 401(k)in the comments!
As the 2010s closed, many young and new investors were in for a shock. Even cautious and conservative investors – e.g. those diversifying, utilizing index funds, not chasing the hot stock, etc. – had seen 15%+ annualized returns from their stock portfolios toward the end of the decade.
Investing is easy!
Pile away some money, compound at 20% for a few years, then head to the beach. Mojito, please!
Then 2020 brought a shock…but only for a few months. In fact, 2020 probably taught more of the wrong lesson. Sure, pandemics hurt…but just wait for the historic and massive recovery!
2022 taught the real lesson. Investing – especially stock investing – has perils, too.
Still, the good outweighs the bad. The up years outweigh the down years, and stock market investing has, historically, been a net positive…if you wait long enough.
But how long do you have to wait? Let’s look at a “normal” investor who does the following:
They invest the same amount every month, like you might in 401(k) or to your IRA. They dollar-cost average.
They invest in a broad-based, low-cost index fund. I’ll be using the S&P 500 historical data (from Robert Shiller**) as a proxy for a U.S. stock market index fund.
They don’t sell. They just keep buying, through thick and thin.
**All data is this article assumes dividends are reinvested, and shows real, or inflation-adjusted, returns
Is 3 years long enough to ensure positive returns? Not even close. A quarter of the time, you lose money over 3 years. In fact, you have a 1-in-10 chance of losing 20% or more. That’s far from a good outcome.
What about 10 years? About 88% of the time, yes…but not 100% of the time. There have been distinct periods in stock market history were 10 years of consistent dollar-cost averaging lost you money.
Below is a table showing the last year of such periods, along with the annual internal rate of return (IRR) of those periods. IRR is the proper way to account for the various investing periods that dollar-cost averaging creates (120 months, 119 months, etc).You shouldn’t just look at beginning and ending. You need to account for everything in between.
You could have invested every month from March 1999 to March 2009, and the final result is as if every one of your dollars suffered a 9.6% annual loss from the moment you invested it.
Ewwwww! Compare that filth against the magic of the 2010s. It’s a completely different story! Someone who invested the same way from November 2011 to November 2021 would have a +13.8% annual IRR.
(-9.6%) and +13.8% annual returns are both within reason for 10-year stock market investing timelines. But the two investors who suffer these opposite fates would feel as if they’ve lived different lives. I want you to be aware of both possibilities.
If we zoom out to 20 year timelines, the results change. Negative periods are still possible, but far more unlikely. Only 5% of 20 year periods had negative IRRs, all concentrated around the end dates in the table below.
Yes – someone could have invested diligently from March 1989 to March 2009, and their real annualized return was just 0.1% per year. That’s not a fun outcome. But it is an unlikely one.
If we zoom out further to 30 year periods, there are no periods of negative IRR.
There are still bad periods, no doubt. But at least we’re seeing real, positive annualized returns. We’re getting some reward for taking these risks.
Let’s pause the bad news. Because the median of these 30-year returns is 6.6% annually. That’s amazing. That’s the reason we invest in the first place. We are making a bet that the median will apply to us, and we’ll see 6.6% annual real returns in our own portfolios.
But only if we wait long enough.
The upshot from this data is that stock investing is not a short-term exercise. There are far too many bad outcomes occurring over 3-, 5-, and even 10-year periods. Short-term money should not be invested in stocks. Something like U.S treasury bonds or money markets makes far more sense.
But if you have the time, patience, and stomach, then long-term stock investing is great place to be.
Thank you for reading! If you enjoyed this article, join 6000+ subscribers who read my 2-minute weekly email, where I send you links to the smartest financial content I find online every week.
-Jesse
Want to learn more about The Best Interest’s back story? Read here.
If you prefer to listen, check out The Best Interest Podcast.
When it comes to picking the best brokerage account for your needs, the type of trader you are is crucial in your decision. Capital One ShareBuilder is an online broker that is part of the same parent company of ING.
Capital One ShareBuilder was created to make automatic online investments through automated withdrawals from your existing accounts so that your savings will grow automatically.
What’s all that really mean?
You don’t have to sit and worry about which day you’re going to invest money. You set up an automated plan, sit back, and watch your retirement account grow without a lot of checking in from you. It’s an easy, low-hassle way of starting to invest.
It’s very similar to the way that an IRA or 401K is managed by your financial advisor. Instead of investing once or twice per year, you build up a habit through consistent investments.
This is also a great way to start investing for new investors that have never traded stocks or invested in mutual funds. You are taking the thinking out of investing.
Set the plan, engage the automatic investments, and go back to worrying about the rest of your life.
Before we jump into the details of Capital One ShareBuilder, you should also look into other great investing options before you make your final decision. Check out these in depth reviews for more details:
Betterment Review
Ally Invest Review
Personal Capital Review
E*TRADE Review
Automated Withdrawals with Capital One ShareBuilder
Automated withdrawals can be used to your advantage in many different ways. For example, if you have ever owned a 401k or IRA, you may have noticed the deduction when you receive your pay stub at the end of your pay period.
Your financial advisor set this up so that the deduction goes straight into your IRA or 401k which is typically a collection of mutual funds.
These mutual funds are all made up of individual securities which commonly are shares of common stock. What Capital One ShareBuilder has created allows you to do the same thing except you are in control of your investment activities.
You can set up this automated withdrawal from either an existing checking account, a deduction from your paycheck, wire transfer or by simply mailing a check.
Upon setting up your account, you get to decide the frequency as well as the amount of these withdrawals which will be automatically transferred into your ShareBuilder account.
For example, if you receive$1,000 check bi-weekly, you can opt for $200 to be automatically invested into Capital One ShareBuilder.
ShareBuilder will take your funds and purchase shares in whatever stock, ETF, or mutual fund of your choosing and automatically invest the dollar amount. This gives you the opportunity to buy partial shares so that you can put the entire $200 in your account to good use immediately.
At the most simplistic level, this is essentially creating your own IRA or retirement fund that you personally manage. The fees that you will be assessed depend on the account level you sign up for.
Different Accounts That Capital One ShareBuilder Offers
Capital One ShareBuilder offers two different account levels. They offer a Basic Plan and a subscription-based Advantage Plan.
The Basic Plan has no monthly fee so it’s free to start. When using the automated investment method with the Basic Plan, you will be assessed a $4 fee for every automated transaction, as well as $9.95 for all real-time trades. You can trade Options with the Basic Plan as well for $9.95 per trade + $1.50 per contract.
With the automatic investing option you can limit the cost of your trades for stocks and ETFs to just $4 per investment. That is among the lowest in the industry.
The next step up is the Advantage Plan. With the Advantage Plan you pay $12 per month and receive 12 automated investment transactions per month for free. All automated transfers after 12 per month will be assessed a fee of $1.
If you need to make a real-time trade (rather than on an automated schedule) the fee will drop to $7.95 ($2 less than on the Basic Plan). Option pricing also drops $2 to $7.95 per trade plus $0.75 per contract.
Capital One ShareBuilder also kicks in premium research from S&P such as the S&P Morning Brief and a list of research team upgrades/downgrades on stocks.
Essentially if you plan to regularly invest funds more than 3 times per month then it makes a lot of sense to switch to the Advantage Plan. Three automatic transactions under the Basic Plan would cost $12.
With the Advantage Plan you get 9 additional automatic transactions for free compared to the Basic Plan. It’s like paying $1 per trade — a price that cannot be beaten with any other broker.
Both account types allow you to invest in mutual funds. The trade costs range from $0 (yes, free) for No Transaction Fee Funds to $19.95 for other mutual funds.
Excellent Research
Like any other broker, Capital One ShareBuilder offers a variety of tools to its customers. They offer screening options for mutual funds, ETFs, and of course stocks.
They have your normal market mover and watch list options as well. You can also research option chains and there is a calendar of upcoming IPOs so you can track which ones you want to invest in.
Capital One ShareBuilder also offers easy tax applications to keep track of your gains/losses throughout the year which you can easily export to typical tax software programs. If you trade a lot having clear and concise tax records is a huge benefit when it comes time to file your taxes.
Building a Diverse ETF Portfolio with Capital One ShareBuilder
Whether you are a new investor just trying to figure out how to invest each month or a seasoned investor looking to lower your investment options, Capital One ShareBuilder is a solid choice. Here are two examples of how you can use Capital One ShareBuilder to grow your portfolio automatically.
New Investor: Open a Roth IRA
The best time to start investing is right now. The longer you wait to begin investing, the more you have to save in order to hit your retirement goals.
If you are a new investor that is just trying to figure out how to budget for your retirement, starting with Capital One ShareBuilder’s Basic Plan is a great place to look.
With opening a Roth IRA you are investing after-tax income from your paycheck. IRS rules limit you to investing $5,000 per year into a Roth IRA. But even if you don’t have $5,000 (that’s $416.67 per month), any amount will help grow your account. Learn more about the Roth IRA contribution limits here.
Let’s assume you have just $100 per month to save for a Roth IRA. To make things simple we will invest 75% of your money into Vanguard’s Total Stock Market ETF (VTI) and 25% into Vanguard’s Total Bond Market ETF (BND). If you are just starting out you don’t need to worry about asset allocation as much as you need to worry about actually investing money for your future.
Here are the steps to take to set up that portfolio:
Open a Basic Plan account with Capital One ShareBuilder and get a $50 account bonus
During the account opening process, make sure you select “Open a Roth IRA”
During the investment selection process, choose Automatic Investment
Search for VTI (the total stock ETF from Vanguard) and choose to invest $75 per month with 1 automatic transfer per month
Then search for BND (the total bond ETF from Vanguard) and choose to invest $25 per month with 1 automatic transfer per month
Sit back and relax, you’re done!
That’s all it takes to get started with investing. You will pay $4 per automatic transfer (so $8) for your two investments each month.
As time goes on you can increase how much you invest or upgrade to an Advantage Plan to increase the number of transactions you have each month.
Seasoned Investor: Lower Your Trading Costs
If you’re a seasoned investor, Capital One ShareBuilder can still be a big help by reducing your automatic investment costs. (If you are a day trader that is not the plan or broker for you.)
Here are the steps to take to cut down on your investing costs:
Open an Advantage Plan account with Capital One ShareBuilder and get a $50 account bonus
During the account opening process, choose whichever account you need whether it is a Roth IRA, Traditional IRA, or a normal trading account
During the investment selection process, choose Automatic Investment
Search for your investments and how much you want to invest in each
Make sure you choose at least 4 automatic investments each month, otherwise, the Basic Plan would be the same or lower cost (3 trades x $4 = $12, which is the cost of the Advantage Plan each month)
Sit back and relax, you’re done!
This plan can save you significantly compared to other brokers.
Conclusion
If you consider yourself to be a day trader, then Capital One ShareBuilder is not the online broker for you. Their real-time trades, as well as options fees at $9.95 (or $7.95 with the Advantage Plan), are not attractive relative to other online brokers.
However, Capital One ShareBuilder is a great option if you want to set up an easy automatic investing plan in ETFs, Equities or No Transaction Fee Mutual Funds.
By picking these quality investment tools you will be able to set up automated withdrawals from a variety of sources to have your account grow steadily while only paying transaction fees ranging from $1 to $4 depending on which plan option you choose.
By setting up your account with Capital One ShareBuilder you will be able to theoretically replace your financial advisor using your own skills and Capital One ShareBuilder’s easy automated system to steadily save for retirement without the approximate 1% fee given to your advisor on an annual basis.
Setting up your ShareBuilder account will take no more than 20 minutes, and requires no extra paperwork than any other financial account.
All major property types saw decreases in volume during the quarter. The dollar volume of loans for industrial properties was down 72% year over year, health care properties were down by 69%, a 67% decrease for office properties, multifamily properties down by 55%, and an 8% decrease for both hotel and retail properties. Among investor … [Read more…]
Last Updated on February 25, 2022 by Mark Ferguson
Buying one rental property may not make you a ton of money right away. However, rentals can be an amazing investment when held for the long-term and when multiple properties are purchased. There is also the opportunity to buy larger commercial or multifamily properties, which can increase returns as well. With a good rental property, you should be making money every month (cash flow); you should make money as soon as you buy by getting a great deal; you will have fantastic tax advantages, you can use financing which greatly reduces the amount of cash needed; and the property value and rents will most likely go up in value over time.
Rental properties have been a great investment for me. I make more than $100,000 a year from the cash flow on my rental properties after all expenses including mortgages, property management, maintenance, and vacancies. I now have 20 rental properties which are a mix of residential and commercial. I bought my first rental property in December of 2010 for $97k. I started with residential properties but now buy almost all commercial, including a 68,000-square-foot strip mall in 2018.
You cannot buy just any property and turn it into a rental if you want to make a lot of money. You have to buy properties below market value with great cash flow to be a successful rental property owner. Not only do I make money every month from my rentals with minimal work, but my rentals have also increased my net worth thanks to buying below market value and appreciation (I don’t like to count on appreciation, but it is a nice bonus). This is not just a hypothetical article. I have owned rentals for many years, kept track of their returns, and written many articles about what I have learned.
The cool thing about real estate is while I have more than $6,000,000 worth of rental properties, it did not take millions of dollars to buy them.
Why did I choose rentals?
One of my passions is automobiles. I purchased a 1986 Porsche 928 a few years ago, and I absolutely love that car. I also have a 1999 Lamborghini Diablo, a 1981 Aston Martin V8, a 1998 Lotus Esprit Twin Turbo, and a few other cars. In my early 20s, I never thought I could afford any of these cars in my early. However, I started to make decent money as a real estate agent in my mid to late 20s. The problem was I was not saving much money. I just kept spending it. I knew if I ever wanted to get ahead in life and be able to afford these cars, I would have to invest the money I was making. I researched everything I could and decided rental properties were the best investment. I worked very hard to save money to buy my first rental.
As soon as I started buying rentals, I could see the fruits of my labor. I was making money every month from rent, I made money as soon as I bought the house because I bought it below market value, and it was forcing me to save money. I wanted to buy as many as I could, and I knew with steady money coming in every month from the rentals I could someday feel comfortable buying expensive cars.
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Why are rentals a good investment?
Not all properties are a good rental, but if you can find properties that are, they can be an amazing investment. A rental property should have a number of attributes
Cash flow
Good rentals will make money every month after paying all expenses. The expenses should include mortgage, taxes, insurance, maintenance, vacancies, and property management. The cash flow is the rent minus all of these expenses. Some people like to shoot for different numbers, but I always liked to see $400 to $500 in cash flow per property.
Buy below market
I get a great deal on every rental I buy. I don’t want to pay retail when I can pay to 20% to 30% less than retail. It is not easy to get great deals, but it is possible. On almost every house I have ever bought, I got a great deal. That instantly increases my net worth, makes me more cash flow, and looks better on my balance sheet for banks.
Leverage
You can put as little down as 20 percent when buying rentals. You can put even less down when buying a property as an owner occupant and then turning the property into a rental.
Tax advantages
Most expenses on rental properties are deductible or depreciable. You can also depreciate the structure of a rental property, which means you can save thousands of dollars each year on your taxes. You can also complete a 1031 exchange on rentals to avoid capital gains taxes.
Appreciation
Many people only talk about housing prices when comparing rentals to the stock market, but appreciation is a bonus. It is not what you are shooting for when buying a rental property because no one knows for sure if prices will go up or when.
It is not easy to find rental properties that are a good investment. It takes me months to find great deals that make over $500 a month like mine typically have, and they are not available in every market. My typical rental property used to cost between $80,000 and $130,000, and it rented for $1,200 to $1,500 a month. I put 20 percent down on the properties and finance the rest with my portfolio lender. I usually end up spending $25,000 to $35,000 in cash to buy each rental property. Cash flow is not the only benefit of rental properties. I slowly pay down the mortgage every month; I have great tax advantages; and they will most likely appreciate.
I am able to save that much cash from each rental property because I make a very good living as a real estate agent as well as from fixing and flipping houses. I like to have nice cars and a nice house, but I always make sure I am saving and investing money first. There are ways to buy rental properties with little money down, but I think you will get further ahead in life by saving as much as possible and investing wisely.
How much do you need to buy a rental?
I go over the exact cost of a rental property here, but let us assume that it costs $30,000 to purchase and repair one rental. You do not have to invest $90,000 a year to buy three rentals a year because you can begin refinancing rental properties after you own them for a year and take cash out to invest in more rentals. You can also save the cash flow from your rental properties to buy more rental properties. I usually buy my properties for about $100,000, with a four percent interest rate and 20 percent down, which leaves a payment of $381 for principal and interest. Those numbers combined with rents from $1,200 to $1,500 a month leave me with at least $500 a month in income from my rental properties.
How much should a rental property cash flow?
It is not easy to make $500 a month in cash flow from a single rental property. I detail how to calculate cash flow here, and I created a cash flow calculator to help people determine cash flow. Cash flow is not the rent minus the mortgage payment: you must consider many other factors. My rents range from $1,250 to $1,600 a month, and my mortgage payments range from $450 to $650 a month. I have to account for maintenance and vacancies on my rental properties, which leaves me with about $500 in profit each month. I buy my properties for $80,000 to $130,000 and usually make quite a few repairs before I rent them out.
What are the long-term returns for someone with little money?
Investing in rental properties can provide fantastic returns when you have a lot of money to invest. Even if you have little money, you can invest in rental properties. I am going to walk through how many years it will take someone to accumulate one million dollars from investing $7,500 a year into long-term rental properties.
The more money you make and save, the easier it is to make one million dollars from rentals. However, even people who do not make a lot of money can get there, although it may take a little longer. I am going to write out this plan assuming someone has a $75,000 salary and can save 10 percent of their income a year.
When you first start out, $7,500 does not go very far, and it takes a lot of money to buy an investment property. Luckily, there are many ways to buy a rental property with much less money if you are an owner occupant or use some of the techniques I discuss here. In the first year, the best bet is to buy a HUD home or REO that needs some work but will still qualify for an FHA or conventional loan. The key to my strategy is buying houses below market value. HUD or REO houses are a great way to do that. We will assume the investor can buy a house similar to the ones I purchase in my area, which cost around $100,000. There are closing costs that the buyer is charged when they get a loan, but you can ask the seller to pay most of your costs.
Buying as an owner occupant year one
The first step is to buy a house. But you cannot buy just any house; you want to buy a house as an owner occupant that you can later turn into a rental. You also want to get a great deal on a house to gain instant equity. To get a great deal on a house, you may have to buy one that needs some repairs. With a HUD home, you can roll $5,000 of the repairs needed into the loan with the FHA escrow and only put 3.5 percent down for the down payment. If the home needs a lot of work, you could use an FHA 203K loan to roll more repairs into the loan. We will assume this house needs $4,000 in work to qualify for a loan, and you bought a HUD home with the costs rolled into the loan. With an FHA loan, you have to pay mortgage insurance every month and an upfront mortgage insurance premium (which could be $200 or more a month).
With a conventional loan, mortgage insurance is much lower than FHA, and you might be able to remove it after two years. However, you may not be able to roll the repairs into the loan, but you could get the seller to fix some items before closing. If the repairs are cosmetic items, you should be able to get a loan without making the repairs before closing. I will assume the total cash needed to close on this hypothetical house is about $5,000. Hopefully, this house was bought below market value because it needed some repairs and was a foreclosure. Once the house is repaired, it should be worth around $125,000.
Since you bought this house as an owner-occupant, you have to live in the home for at least one year.
Year two
After one year, you have gained about $22,000 in net worth; $125,000 – $100,000 purchase price – $4,000 repairs rolled into the loan + $1,000 gained in equity pay down. In year one, no rent was collected because the home was owner-occupied to get a low down payment. In year two, the house is rented out and you can buy another owner-occupied home using the same strategy. When you try to buy a home right away, you won’t be able to count the rent from the first house as income right away. It is best to buy houses priced low enough that you can qualify for two houses at once to make this work. Otherwise, you may have to wait up to a year for the rent to count as income and can buy again.
You can only have one FHA mortgage at a time, so this time you have to get a conventional loan with 5 percent down. In the second year, you have saved up another $7,500 from your job and have $2,500 left over from the first year for a total of $11,500 saved. The second home also costs $100,000, and the seller pays 3 percent closing costs. The down payment needed is $5,000, and $5,000 in repairs are needed on this second house. The total cash needed to buy an owner-occupied home is $10,000 and the repaired value is $125,000.
The first house is rented out for $1,300 a month (which I will do all the time on a $100,000 purchase), and the payment is $550 with taxes and insurance. Add vacancy, maintenance, mortgage insurance and we’ll assume $300 a month in positive cash flow.
Year Three
In the second year, you made $25,000 from buying house number two (equity) and made $3,600 from cash flow. You also made $2,500 from equity pay down on both loans (I am assuming each loan will pay down $500 more each year). In year two, all the savings was used from year one, but you saved $7,500 and made $3,600 in cash flow for a total of $11,100 savings. Buy another house using an owner-occupied loan and use $10,000 of cash. Net worth increases to $53,100 after adding the equity pay down, cash flow and equity gained in the purchase of a new home.
The second house is rented out again using the same figures, although the mortgage insurance may be less because we are using a conventional loan instead of an FHA loan.
Year Four
Another house is bought below market value in year four. Cash flow increases to $7,200 a year plus $1,100 in previous savings and $7,500 saved this year. You now have $17,300 cash saved up before we subtract another $10,000 for the purchase of a new house as well as cash for the repairs. Net worth has increased $25,000 on the purchase plus $4,500 in equity pay down. The total net worth increase is now $90,800 for the last four years.
You own four houses and three of them are rented out. At this point, you may be able to remove the mortgage insurance on the conventional loans that have been held for two years, but I am not going to in my calculations to keep things simple and conservative.
Year Five
In year five, we repeat the entire process again and come up with the following numbers. Cash flow increases to $10,800 and previous savings $5,800 and $7,500 saved up equals $25,600 saved cash. The investor purchases another property and uses $10,000 in cash to leave $15,600 in his cash account. Net worth increases by $7,000 for equity pay down: $10,800 for cash flow and $25,000 for the purchase of a new property. The total increase in net worth is now $133,600.
You may have noticed this investor just mortgaged his fifth house. For many people, getting a loan on more than four houses is very difficult. However, the investor is buying houses as an owner occupant, which makes it much easier to get a loan.
Year Six
The same process is repeated all over again. Cash flow is $14,400, previous cash is $14,100, savings equals $7,500 for $37,500 cash minus $10,000 for a new purchase. The investor has $27,500 left in his bank account. He increases his equity pay down to $13,500, has an increase of $25,000 in net worth from a purchase, and an increase in net worth from cash flow of $14,400. He now has increased his net worth by $186,500.
Year seven
In year seven, the seventh house is purchased. Cash in the bank equals $26,000 from previous savings, $18,000 in cash flow, and $7,500 in new savings, which totals $53,000. You are now able to buy two properties this year! Buy another owner-occupied property using $10,000 and an investor-owned property.
To purchase an investment property, we need to put at least 20% down, and we still need to make repairs. We are buying below market value still, so we are going to assume we are adding $25,000 more a year in equity and $3,600 more a year in cash flow. Estimated costs for down payment and repairs is $32,000 to buy an investment property. You have $11,000 of cash left after buying two properties this year. Net worth increased by $60,500 after adding the usual amounts to total $247,000.
Year eight
Year eight is very exciting because we get to add two properties into the mix instead of just one. With the extra houses added, increased cash flow, and continued equity pay down, our net worth increased $98,200 in just one year! Total net worth is now $345,200, and you are making real progress! You have $42,200 saved up after buying another house in year eight as an owner-occupant, so you can buy another investment property, but won’t, because our margins will be too thin with only a couple thousand in savings.
Even though you are still making only $75,000 a year, you increased your net worth by almost $100,000 a year. There are not many people who can increase their net worth by more than they make in a year!
Year nine
In year nine, you are adding $26,500 in equity pay down, $28,800 in cash flow, $25,000 in built-in equity with purchases, for a total net worth increase of $80,300. Your total net worth increase over nine years is now $425,500. You also have $60,000 saved up after paying for one house as an owner occupant, which is enough to buy another investment property, leaving $26,500 cash left over!
Year ten
In year ten, you have enough cash to buy two more properties and have $28,000 in cash left over. Net worth increases by $114,500, bringing us up to a total increase of $540,000.
Year eleven
You can buy two more properties and increase your net worth by $129,200 for a total of $669,200. Cash flow is at $43,200 a year, and there is $36,700 of cash left over after buying two more properties. You could buy a third house this year but decide not to stretch your limits. You need to make sure you have plenty of reserves for the rentals.
Year twelve
This year, you buy three houses because there is $94,600 in cash available. After buying the three houses, there is $22,100 cash left in savings, equity was paid down, and $44,500 and $50,400 in cash flow was generated. Total net worth is now $814,100! You are getting closer to making one million dollars investing in real estate!
Year thirteen
You have increased your net worth by $190,200 this year because you bought three houses last year. The total net worth increase is now $1,004,300! Your actual net worth will be higher than this because I did not calculate savings from your income into the net worth, just the gain from buying rental properties. Cash flow is now $61,200 a year, and you have paid off $54,000 of equity in one year!
You own 16 rental properties which are producing over $60,000 a year! The incredible part is we did not increase the rents at all, even though they are likely to go up over thirteen years. We assumed there was no appreciation, even though there likely will be over that time. Due to the tax advantages of rentals, you are probably taking home as much in passive income from your rentals as you are from your job.
Things we did not consider
This was a very basic calculation for how to make one million dollars investing in rental properties. It would take a book to go through all the variables and possible roadblocks that might come into play. Here are a few items we did not consider, which would have an impact on the time it takes to reach one million dollars in increased net worth.
Inflation will increase the prices of homes and wages as well as rents. While the investor has to pay more for houses each year, he will also be making more and saving more. The biggest factor is the rent increases. His rent on the first houses he buys will increase as time goes on, but his payments will stay the same. His cash flow will increase greatly as time goes on, which we did not account for.
Taxes were not accounted for either because that gets very complicated. The cash flow the investor is making would be income, but the investor could offset that with depreciation from the rental properties. I assumed those two factors even themselves out.
Investment property purchases had 20 percent down, where the owner-occupant purchases had 5 percent down. There should be an increase in cash flow on the investment property purchases because of the lower down payment, but I left them the same to make the math easier.
Refinancing was not considered either, but the investor could easily have refinanced a couple of properties to get more cash out to buy more rental properties. This would have increased cash flow and net worth due to the increased number of properties purchased.
Obtaining more than 4 or more than ten mortgages can be difficult. I am assuming the investor is able to get as many loans as possible with a lender. I can have as many loans as I want with my portfolio lender, but many people cannot. This would be a roadblock once he reached ten financed properties.
Buying owner-occupied properties each year is possible but may not be realistic. Moving thirteen times in thirteen years may put a bit of stress on the family!
I also assume the investor manages his homes himself, which is doable in the beginning but it maybe tough when he gets ten homes or more.
How Did I Build a Rental Property Portfolio
I have 20 rentals now, but I did not buy them overnight. I started in 2010 and slowly bought them over the last 9 years. I bought 1 in 2010, 2 in 2011, 2 in 2012, and kept building from there. I worked very hard to make a great living as a real estate agent, but I also used real estate to buy more rentals.
I bought my first rental by refinancing my personal house and taking cash out of it. I also refinanced some of my rentals along the way so that I would have more capital to buy even more rentals. I was lucky that our market appreciated so much, but I also bought every rental property way below market value, which allowed me to take cash out when I refinanced.
I stopped buying residential rentals in 2015 because the market in Colorado became too expensive. However, I was able to invest in commercial rentals in my area and cash flow on them. There are a lot of different ways to invest in real estate!
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How much have my rentals made me?
I put together some stats to show how much rentals made me after four years of owning them. It has been a few years since then, and things have gotten even better! At the time, I had bought 11 rental properties. After doing some calculating, I discovered my rental properties have appreciated and been bought cheap enough to produce a gain of $600,000 since December of 2010! It is important to remember that net worth is all on paper, and I would not realize $600,000 in profit if I decided to sell all of my rental properties today. I would have to have selling costs, and I would have a large tax bill if I sold my rental properties.
How much equity have I built with rentals?
One thing I have done with every rental property I buy is buying them below market value. I try to buy my properties at least 20 percent below the current value, and if a home needs repairs, I want that rental property worth 20 percent more than the price I paid plus the cost of the repairs. For example; if I buy a rental for $100,000 and it needs $20,000 in work, I want it to be worth $144,000 or more when I am done repairing the home ($100,000 + $20,000 = $120,000 * .20 = $144,000). That means I usually gain at least $20,000 in net worth on every rental property I buy. The 11 rentals I have bought have gained at least $220,000 (I buy many properties at more than 20 percent below market) just by buying homes at the right price.
I also have been lucky that prices have increased significantly in Northern Colorado in the last few years. I would say lucky for the sake of calculating net worth, but the increase in prices has made it harder to buy cheap rental properties with great cash flow. If you want to know how much my houses have appreciated, I broke down each rental and how much money it has made below.
Rental 1
I bought my first rental property for $96,900 on 12/5/2010. At the time I bought it, I knew it was worth at least $125,000, which is not a huge spread between the buy price and fair market value, but the home needed less than $2,000 in repairs.
The house is now worth at least $165,000 and most likely more. I had it appraised earlier this year, and the appraisal was $165,000 and our market values have increased since that time. If the house is worth $165,000, then my net worth increased about $66,000 after you subtract the repairs. The home was rented out for 1,050 a month when I first bought it and now is rented out for $1,400 a month.
Rental 2
I bought rental property number 2 for $94,000 on 10/5/2011. This home needed much more work than number one, and I spent about $15,000 repairing the house. At the time I bought this house, I thought it was worth $140,000 after it was repaired, and this house is now worth around $175,000. That leaves me with a net worth increase of about $66,000 on this property as well.
This house has been rented to my brother-in-law since I have owned it. The rent has been steady at $1,100 the entire time but could be $1,400 to $1,500. My brother-in-law has a house under contract and will be moving soon.
Rental 3
I bought my third rental property for $92,000 on 11/21/2011. This house needed repairs, and I spent about $14,000 getting it ready to rent. At the time I bought this house, I thought it was worth $135,000 fixed up, and this house is now worth around $170,000, which creates a net worth increase of $64,000.
This home has been rented to the same tenants for $1,250 a month, but we just raised the rent this month to $1,300 a month. It would probably rent for $1,400 to $1,500 to a new tenant.
Rental 4
I bought rental property number 4 for $109,000 on 1/25/2012. This home also needed about $14,000 in repairs before it could be rented. At the time I bought this house, I thought it was worth $145,000. This house is one of my most valuable rental properties and is worth $185,000 in today’s market. That leaves a net worth gain of $62,000.
This home was rented for $1,300 up until this year when I rented it to new tenants for $1,500 a month.
Rental 5
I bought rental property number five for $88,249 on 12/14/2012, and it needed more repairs than the others. The market had definitely begun to improve at this point, and finding a home that was under $100,000 was very tough. This home was a good deal, even though it needed $18,000 in repairs. I thought it was worth around $130,000 when I bought it, and I now think it is worth $165,000. That leaves a net worth increase of $59,000.
This home has been rented to the same tenants for $1,200 a month.
Rental 6
I bought rental property number six for $115,000 on 3/7/2013. This house needed about $15,000 in repairs, and I thought the property was worth about $150,000 after it was fixed up when I bought it. It is now worth $170,000, and that leaves a net worth increase of $40,000.
This home was first rented for $1,300 a month until earlier this year it was rented for $1,400 a month.
Rental 7
I bought rental property number 7 for $113,000 on 4/18/2013. This house needed only $9,000 in repairs, and I thought it was worth $155,000 when I bought it. This neighborhood has done great, and the home is now worth $185,000, which leaves a net worth increase of $63,000.
This home has been rented for $1,400 a month since I bought it.
Rental 8
I bought rental property number 8 for 97,500 on 11/18/2013. The home needed $15,000 in repairs, and I thought it was worth $150,000 once fixed up. It is now worth $165,000, and that leaves a net worth increase of $52,000.
This home has been rented or $1,400 a month since I bought it.
Rental 9
I bought rental property number 9 for $133,000 on 2/14/2014. This home only needed $4,000 in work before it was rented, and I thought it was worth $155,000 after it was repaired. I think it is worth $165,000 now, and that leaves a net worth increase of $28,000.
This home is rented for $1,400 a month.
Rental 10
I bought rental property number 10 for $99,928 on 4/13/2014. The home only needed $3,500 in repairs before it was rented, and I thought the home was worth $125,000 when I bought it. I think it is worth about $130,000 now, leaving a net worth increase of $26,500.
This home is rented for $1,250.
Rental 11
I just bought rental property number 11 on 7/24/2014. This house will need about $15,000 in repairs, and I paid $109,318. I think this house is worth $155,000 repaired, leaving a net worth increase of $30,000.
I think this home rents for $1,400 a month.
What is the total gain?
If you add up all these numbers, my total net worth has increased by $556,500, but these numbers do not tell the entire story. I had more costs than I listed when I first bought these houses, but I did not go back through each closing file to get those exact costs. On many of these properties, I had the seller pay some closing costs, which covered much of my buying costs. I also had some carrying costs while I was getting the properties repaired and they were not rented out yet. However, I also did not include any of my cash flow or the money I made on these properties since 2010. I used all of my cash flow to pay off rental property number 1, which added up to over $70,000. That $70,000 in cash flowdefinitely covers all the closing and carrying costs I had on each property and went directly to increasing my net worth by paying off a loan. Speaking of paying down loans, I did not include the equity I have gained over the last 3.5 years by paying down my loans. I have paid down thousands of dollars of loan balances with regular payments on my rental properties.
Net worth is not money in my pocket but what I am worth on paper. Even though it is cool to see this number increase over time, this money is not all readily available. I would have to sell my rental properties to see this money, and I would not see all of it. There would be selling costs when I sell the properties and taxes owed once I sold them. Since I am using the depreciation on the rental properties to save me in taxes, I would have a higher than normal tax bill because I would have to recapture that depreciation.
What about in 2019?
I have 20 rentals that have increased my net worth about $3,000,000 in the last 9 years. I have gotten lucky that Colorado has appreciated like crazy, but they were still awesome deals even without that appreciation. They make me about $13,000 a month after all expenses. The cool part is I have spent less than $350,000 on the properties after refinancing some to take money back out. Talk about an amazing investment!
You can see all my rentals here.
My book on making money with rental properties
I provide a lot of information on my blog and YouTube channel, but I also have written six books. My book Build a Rental Property Empire has been a best-seller for years. It goes over everything I do to find, finance, repair, manage, and even sell my rentals. I also added a commercial chapter to go over that aspect as well. You can find the book on Amazon as a paperback, audiobook, and Kindle. Build a Rental Property Empire: The no-nonsense book on finding deals, financing the right way, and managing wisely.
Conclusion
It can take time to make a lot of money with rentals, but it is possible. Over the years I have bought a 1999 Lamborghini Diablo, a 1998 Lotus Esprit, a 1981 Aston Martin, and more thanks to the rental properties. The rentals have also allowed me to be aggressive with my house flipping business because I know I have that cash flow coming in every month. We flipped 26 houses last year!