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“John, I sold some stock and used the proceeds to completely pay off two credit cards. That takes my credit card debt from almost $17,000 to zero. It also reduces my debt-to-limit ratio from over 50% to 0%. Needless to say I’m excited to see what happens to my credit scores as a result. How long will it take for my credit scores to reflect this reduction in debt?”
The answer to this question is actually quite simple and it opens up a topic on which I don’t believe I’ve ever written in my 22 years in the credit industry.
The answer to the reader’s question is that it will likely not take more than one month for your scores to reflect this reduction in debt, and if your timing was good it could take much less than that.
The reason it could take up to one month for your credit scores to reflect the reduction in credit card debt is because it could take up to one month for the credit reports to be updated to show the zero balance on those two credit cards.
Credit scores are 100% dependent on the information in your credit reports, so even though your balances are zero today, your credit reports also have to reflect the zero balances in order for your scores to benefit.
This leads me to the next issue, which is the changing of your credit scores. The question suggests that credit scores change over time as data on your credit report changes.
And while this is a completely reasonable assumption, it’s not actually true. Credit scores do not change over time as your credit report data changes.
Changing Vs. Recalculating
Credit scores are not a part of your credit report. They are not “updated” like, for example, your credit card account is updated.
When your score is calculated for a lender it is not maintained as part of your credit history.
It is calculated, discarded, and then recalculated the next time a lender pulls your credit reports and requests a credit score. So, the answer posed in the title of this article is, “Never.”
Your credit score never changes.
Credit Score Tracking Services
There are websites like Credit Karma that will give away free credit scores and then track them for you over time but that’s different.
The score tracking is one of their features. The credit bureaus don’t track your scores over time as they’re calculated.
If your VantageScore credit score or FICO credit score is 730 on Sunday and 780 the following Sunday, it gives the impression that your score increased by 50 points during the week.
That’s not true. Your score was simply recalculated a week later and the latter scored out at 780 instead of 730.
Why the Numbers Fluctuate
So how do you attribute different scores over time?
There has to be a scientific explanation of why your score was a 730 last Sunday and a 780 this Sunday, and there is.
The difference in scores is likely attributable to one or more credit report and credit scoring model events. Your score could be different because of;
1) Something material changed on your credit reports.
Assuming everything, and I mean EVERYTHING, stayed the same on your credit reports (dates, balances, statuses, composition) except for one significant change, you could argue that the one change is responsible for the difference in scores.
This would have to be validated by manually scoring the credit report before and after the change and measuring the true impact of that one change.
This manual scoring can take several hours and isn’t fun at all. In fact, I just got the chills thinking about doing it.
2) Something seemingly immaterial changed on your credit reports…but it was actually kind of important.
A great example would be a date associated with an account or with something derogatory.
If an account or a derogatory item crossed one of the many thresholds associated with the age metrics of a credit scoring system and all of a sudden became “older,” that could cause a change in score even though cosmetically the credit reports look the same.
3) Your credit report experienced what’s referring to as Scorecard Hop.
Scorecard hop is a non-technical term meaning that something changed on your credit report and it has caused your credit report to be scored using a completely different series of measurements by the scoring model.
Imagine changing the speedometer in your car from Miles Per Hour to Kilometers Per Hour. You’re still going to same speed but the measurement of your speed is very different.
This can be something as minor as a new account hitting the credit report or an ancient collection falling off.
When you scorecard hop EVERY measurement associated with your credit report changes and it’s next to impossible to put your finger on why your scores are different unless you score the credit report manually.
John Ulzheimer is the President of Consumer Education at SmartCredit.com, the credit blogger for Mint.com, and a contributor for the National Foundation for Credit Counseling. He is an expert on credit reporting, credit scoring and identity theft. Formerly of FICO, Equifax and Credit.com, John is the only recognized credit expert who actually comes from the credit industry. The opinions expressed in his articles are his and not of Mint.com or Intuit. Follow John on Twitter.
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Getting a mortgage is never a sure thing, even if you’re the richest individual in the world. And even if you have a perfect 850 FICO score.
There are a ton of underwriting guidelines that must be met to qualify for a home loan, both for the borrower and the property. So even the most creditworthy borrower could still run into roadblocks along the way.
Last week, the Federal Financial Institutions Examination Council (FFIEC) released Home Mortgage Disclosure Act (HMDA) data for 2012.
Though mortgage lending was up a big 38% from 2011, there will still thousands of declined mortgage applications.
In fact, the top mortgage lender in the United States, Wells Fargo, denied 84,687 of the 399,911 home purchase applications it received (21.2% rejection rate), including those that were pre-approved, according to a Marketwatch analysis.
Rejection Rates by Top 10 Mortgage Lenders in 2012 (Purchases)
Reasons Why Lenders Decline Mortgage Applications
Inadequate credit history
Lack of affordability due to limited income
Insufficient job history
Lack of funds for down payment, closing costs, and reserves
Issues with the property (as opposed to the borrower)
While the possibilities are endless, I can provide several reasons why a mortgage loan might be declined.
Credit History
Let’s start with credit, which is a biggie. First off, if your credit score isn’t above a certain level, your home loan application might be declined.
While the FHA permits financing with credit scores as low as 500, most individual banks have overlays that call for higher scores. So if your score isn’t say 640, you could be denied.
Even if you credit score is above a key threshold, a lack of credit history could prevent you from obtaining a mortgage. What this means is that those who didn’t open enough credit cards and other loans (student loans, auto loans/leases, etc.) prior to applying for a mortgage could be denied.
Seems unfair to be punished for not using credit, but mortgage lenders need to measure your creditworthiness somehow, and without prior datapoints it can be difficult to impossible to do so.
Staying in the credit realm, what’s on your credit report could hurt you as well. If you have recent mortgage lates, you could be denied for a subsequent mortgage.
The same goes for past short sales, foreclosures, bankruptcies, and so on, though the FHA has recently eased guidelines on that front.
Another credit issue that comes up is when borrowers make the mistake of opening new credit cards or other loans during or just before the mortgage approval process.
Doing so can hurt your credit score and/or increase your total monthly liabilities, which could kill your application in the affordability department.
Affordability and Income
Speaking of affordability, if you don’t make enough money for the mortgage you’re trying to qualify for, you could be denied. Banks have certain DTI ratio maximums that are enforced, and if you exceed them, you’ll be declined.
So attempting to borrow more than you can afford can easily lead to a denied app.
Where that income comes from is important as well. If you’ve only been at the same job for a few months, or less than two years, you’ll have some explaining to do.
Underwriters want to know that your income is steady and expected to be maintained in the future. If you just started a new job, who knows if you’ll last.
The same is true about sharp fluctuations in income – if your income all of a sudden shoots up, the underwriter might not be convinced that you’ll continue to make that amount of money until it’s proven for at least a couple years.
There’s also the odd chance that mortgage rates jump and if you don’t lock in your rate, you could fall out of affordability.
Assets and Down Payment
Another common problem is coming up with the necessary funds to close your loan. Generally, you need both down payment money and reserves for a certain number of months to show lenders you can actually pay your mortgage.
If you aren’t able to come up with the money, you could be denied, especially if there are certain LTV limits that must be met.
And if you try to game the system by depositing money from family or friends in your own account at the last minute, you’ll likely be asked to document that money or risk denial.
Property Issues
As I noted earlier, it’s not just about you. If the property doesn’t appraise, the loan will be put into jeopardy. If it comes in short, you’ll need to bring more money in at closing, and if you don’t have the money, you might need to walk away.
There are also those who try to convince lenders that a property will be a primary residence, when in fact it’s a second home or an investment property. This is a common red flag that often leads to a denial.
For condo or townhouse buyers, there are additional hurdles that involve the HOA and the composition of other owners in the complex. If too many units are non-owner occupied, or the HOA’s finances are in bad shape, your mortgage could be declined.
Even if it’s a single-family home, if there’s something funky going on, like bars on the windows or some kind of weird home-based business, financing might not happen.
There’s also good old-fashioned lying and fraud – if you attempt to pump up your income or job title, and it turns out to be bogus, your application will get declined in a hurry.
If you are denied, it’s not the end of the world. Simply determine what went wrong and look into applying with a different bank, perhaps one with more liberal guidelines. Or ask for an exception.
Of course, you might just need to wait a while if it’s a more serious issue that can only be cured with time, which is certainly sometimes the case.
Condensed List of Reasons Why Mortgages Get Denied
1. Loan amount too big 2. Income too low 3. Inability to document income 4. Using rental income to qualify 5. DTI ratio exceeded 6. Mortgage rates rise and push payments too high 7. Payment shock 8. LTV too high 9. Inability to obtain secondary financing 10. Underwater on mortgage 11. Not enough assets 12. Unable to verify assets 13. No job 14. Job history too limited 15. Changed jobs recently 16. Self-employment issues 17. Using business funds to qualify 18. Limited credit history 19. Credit score too low 20. Spouse’s credit score too low 21. Past delinquencies 22. Past foreclosure, short sale, BK 23. Too much debt 24. Undisclosed liabilities 25. New or closed credit accounts 26. New/changed bank account 27. Credit errors 28. Unpaid tax liens 29. Unpaid alimony or child support 30. Divorce issues 31. No rental history 32. Fraud/lying 33. Undisclosed relationships with seller (non arms-length transaction) 34. Attempting to buy multiple properties 35. Property doesn’t appraise at value 36. Defects with property 37. Home business on property 38. Non-permitted work 39. HOA issues 40. Investor concentration in complex too high 41. One entity owns too many units in complex 42. Title issues 43. Lender overlays 44. You own too many properties 45. Co-signer for other loans 46. Property not really owner-occupied 47. Layered risk (lots of questionable things added up) 48. Incomplete application 49. Inability to verify key information 50. Plain old mistakes
A new analysis from Zillow revealed that nearly half of mortgage applicants opted to pay points when taking out a home loan last year.
These optional costs allow homeowners to buy down their interest rate at closing.
Doing so lowers their monthly mortgage payment for the duration of the loan term.
And it saves them money on interest via a lower mortgage rate, meaning more of each payment goes toward principal.
But are points actually a good deal for homeowners? And do they make sense when interest rates are high?
A Lot More Homeowners Are Paying Mortgage Points These Days
Zillow Home Loan’s analysis, which used data from the Home Mortgage Disclosure Act (HMDA), found that roughly 45% of conventional primary home borrowers paid mortgage discount points in 2022.
As noted, these points allow borrowers to obtain a lower mortgage rate. They are a form of prepaid interest.
The result in a reduced monthly mortgage payment and a lower interest expense during the loan term.
What’s interesting is a lot more homeowners are paying these points than in prior years.
For example, when mortgage rates were at or near record lows, far fewer applicants paid points.
To put it in perspective, just 29.6% of borrowers paid points in 2021, 28.4% in 2020, and 27.3% in 2019.
As for why, it’s probably because the mortgage rate offered was so low that there was little need to pay points. And probably little desire.
Zillow notes that buying points is most often used by low-income borrowers (those who make between 30% and 50% of their area’s median income).
These tend to be the folks who are most fixated on keeping monthly payments down.
At the same time, borrowers were more likely to pay points in top and middle price tiers than for homes in the bottom price tier.
Simply put, a lower mortgage rate makes a bigger impact on a larger loan amount.
However, those who made less than 30% of their area’s median income purchased the most points overall for homes in that bottom price tier.
Another issue lately is because the mortgage market has been so volatile, many lenders made mortgage points compulsory.
[Why Mortgage Lenders Are Requiring Upfront Points]
Paying One Point Might Reduce Your Mortgage Rate by 0.25%
While this can certainly vary, Zillow found that mortgage applicants might need to pay 1% of the loan amount to reduce the interest rate by 0.25%.
For example, on a $300,000 loan amount with a rate of 6.75%, it could cost $3,000 to lower that rate to say 6.5%.
The difference in monthly payment would be about $50 and the interest saved about $18,000 over the full 30-year loan term.
Knowing this, you would need to determine if it’s worth that upfront cost. To do so, you figure out the break-even period, which is how long it takes to recoup those costs and begin saving money.
In our example, it might take around four years of reduced payments and interest to make that upfront point worth it.
And that’s the rub. You have to stay in the home AND keep the mortgage for at least that long to actually benefit.
Note that at the moment, mortgage discount points might be going a little further in terms of rate reduction.
Be sure to shop around with multiple lenders to see how far a point can go, as this can vary by company.
Is a Temporary Buydown a Better Option Than Paying Points?
While paying points wasn’t as popular when mortgage rates were rock-bottom, it may have been underutilized.
After all, someone with a 30-year fixed set at 2-3% will arguably keep that home loan for as long as possible. So paying upfront for even more savings could be a winning move.
Conversely, someone who takes out a mortgage set at 6.5% today may not want to keep it very long. Or pounce at the first opportunity to refinance.
There’s also an expectation that mortgage rates could ease later in the year and in 2024. As such, paying points at closing could be a money-loser.
Remember, if you don’t keep the loan past the break-even period, you won’t actually save money on the upfront costs.
This makes the argument for a temporary buydown, such as 2-1 buydown, perhaps more compelling.
You can save money for the first two years and get the lender, builder, or seller to pay for it.
And once a refinance opportunity comes along, you can swap your mortgage in for a new one at a lower rate.
Instead of banking on keeping the mortgage for a long-haul, you can take advantage of lower payments for the first couple years.
It’s less commitment, and possibly more cost-effective. You’re only using the payment reduction for the year or so until mortgage rates ideally come back down.
The homeowner who pays discount points might feel stuck in their loan knowing they’d “lose money” if they refinanced prior to breaking even.
However, the borrower who opts for the temporary buydown must ensure they can afford the actual mortgage payment if a refinance opportunity doesn’t come along.
The National Association of Realtors released its 2013 National Housing Pulse Survey recently, and they’ve been sharing bits and pieces for free on their blog.
A more interesting tidbit shared over the weekend shed some light on the sacrifices home buyers make in order to scrounge up enough cash to buy a piece of property.
Ditching the Luxury Lifestyle
The top cutback made by all buyers was on “luxury items” or “non-essential items,” which is pretty standard if you’re gearing up to purchase anything expensive.
Of all buyers surveyed by NAR, 32% indicated that they had to cut back in those departments.
Broken down further, 42% of first-time buyers said they had to ditch such items, compared to just 26% of repeat buyers.
Entertain Yourself
The second biggest concession was entertainment, with 26% of all buyers indicating that they had to forego fun while saving up to buy a home.
Again, many more first-time buyers (35%) had to make this sacrifice compared to seasoned repeat buyers (20%).
Whether you’re in the market to buy a home or not, you should limit how much you spend on entertainment, which can add up in a hurry.
I Don’t Have Anything to Wear
The third biggest hard decision a prospective buyer had to make involved clothing, with 20% indicating that new clothes were on hold.
More than a quarter (27%) of first-timers had to wear their old clothes while home shopping, compared to 15% of repeat buyers, who perhaps felt more at ease with the process.
It’s certainly easier to buy a home the second or third time around, knowing the potential pitfalls and setbacks that can occur.
At the same time, the housing and mortgage market is constantly in flux, so what worked five years ago might not fly today.
How Does Camping Sound?
The fourth biggest guilty pleasure given up was vacationing, which 13% of buyers said they canceled to pursue their home buying crusade.
Again, more first-time home buyers (14%) cut back in this category compared to those who’ve already been there (11%).
Believe it or not, there are plenty of times when buyers or refinancers are out of town are critical periods during the loan process.
Don’t go on vacation if you know your loan documents might need to be signed, or if you’re anywhere in the process for that matter.
There’s a good chance you’ll need to sign or fax an important document, so stay close to home until the loan funds.
Ride a Bike
The fifth biggest sacrifice buyers made was either selling an existing vehicle or deciding not to purchase one, though only six percent of respondents noted this.
It was again higher for first-time buyers (7%) than repeat buyers (6%), but just barely.
For the record, you shouldn’t make any significant purchases when shopping for a home, especially something that requires a loan, like a car.
If you take out another loan around the same time you take out a mortgage, your credit score will likely take a hit, and you could even have issues with your debt-to-income ratio exceeding the allowable limits.
Conversely, selling a car could actually help you in the affordability department if you had an associated car loan/lease that you could now remove from your DTI calculations.
So those were the top five sacrifices. Some respondents (6%) also reported taking a second job to earn some extra income for the home purchase.
Just note that while it’s great to earn some extra dough, a short-term, part-time job likely won’t be used for qualification purposes.
Overall, 53% of buyers said they didn’t need to make any sacrifices at all, so perhaps affordability isn’t a concern just yet. Either way, save up, season your assets early on, and be ready to document everything!
The house rebuilding project is going well. We’ve finished all the framing, and the higher ceilings and more open floorplan are hinting at a level of awesomeness that surprises even me. A picture from just this morning:
Here is the new living room and the kitchen around the corner in the back. Old ceiling height was at the bottom of that steel beam. 2 more giant window openings still to come behind those plywood squares.
While I’ve destroyed and rebuilt quite a few houses for other people, this is the first one I have been fortunate enough to create from nearly scratch for my own family, so I am treating it as a bit of a science experiment. I want to build neat energy-saving features into it, but they need to be cost-effective and homegrown whenever possible.
Any old rich guy can hire the top architect and boutique builder to make him the latest LEED-Platinum superhouse to show off in Dwell magazine… at $1000 per square foot. But with energy cheap and skilled labor and high-end home materials expensive, it takes more thought and experimentation to save energy AND money at the same time. And one of these experimental projects is to build my own radiant under-floor heating system.
If you have never heard about this, you’ll want to tune in. The dominant heating method in the US right now is the forced air furnace – a big box in your basement that blows air (and dust) through a huge network of bulky air tubes so it can reach all parts of your house through floor vents. It works, but it is not elegant: they make noise, waste a surprising amount of interior space with ducts and chases, and are a hassle to install or upgrade.
When my small construction company was building some houses from the ground up a few years ago, the architect highly recommended that we use hydronic (radiant) heat instead of forced air. “It is a world of difference”, he said, “To have that silent warmth radiating at you through the floor instead of just blowing around some hot air.”
Unfortunately, when I got quotes from some plumbers for this type of heating system, the cost was astronomical: $35,000 or more, when a full conventional heating system was only $10,000 installed. Since these homes were being built to sell, on a tight budget to compete with other houses in the forced-air price range, I reluctantly decided to skip the luxury option. Plus, the passive solar design in our architecture would ensure that the furnace was used only lightly anyway.
Now, the picture has changed. I have learned to do my own plumbing, and new technologies have come down in price that make radiant heat much more affordable. After quite a few long nights of research and online training videos, I have bought all the necessary parts and we are about to put this sucker in.
What is Hydronic Radiant Heating?
Have you ever walked past a large brick building long after the sun goes down, and felt warmth all over your body even without touching the wall? How about feeling the heat from a hot bed of campfire coals even when sitting some distance away? This is radiant heat in action: a warm surface shines out infrared light (also known as heat), which directly warms your skin. With a hot campfire on a still mountain night, you can feel completely warm even when the air temperature around you is below freezing.
This same concept applies nicely to warming a house with hydronic radiant heat: warm water circulates in tubes under your floor, causing the floor to warm up and shine heat at you from all directions. There are no ducts and no blowing dust, and the system operates silently. And because the system is warming your skin directly at the same time it warms the air of your house, you feel warmer at a lower temperature setting, which allows you to keep the house cooler, saving energy. But the best part may be that you have constantly warm feet, wherever you go in your house.
So how do we build one of these systems? In a nutshell, you need something to heat the water (sometimes called a boiler), a network of tubing under your floor, and a pump to circulate that water through all that tubing:
While the concept is simple, my summary leaves out a lot of detail. When you look at the typical “boiler room” in a luxury house, there are all sorts of valves and sensors, and miles of meticulously soldered copper from the $35,000 plumber. I mean, shit, does this look like an easy do-it-yourself project to you?
Me neither. This is why I have always gone with forced air furnaces in the past.
On top of that, hydronic heating is an art and science unto itself, with things like ΔT, GPM, BTU/hr, and R-value calculations involved. If you can get through all that, you’re faced with boilers that start at $2000, a complicated selection of parts that nobody except the experts really understands (you won’t be getting advice at Home Depot on building one of these systems), and all sorts of other hurdles.
However, after digging through all this rubble, I found a few simplifications that bring the cost and complexity of radiant heat way down, to make it a DIY-compatible project for the average handy Mustachian. The tricks I’m applying for my system:
Using drinking-water-safe components allows an “open loop” system which requires fewer valves and allows item 2:
Using a single tankless water heater for both hot water and house heating cuts out the $2000-$4000 boiler cost. I chose this extremely efficient Rheem Tankless unit that runs only about $1200.
A single variable speed circulator pump eliminates most of the loss and loop size calculations by sensing the water temperature and adjusting its speed automatically (this also saves energy).
Using a pre-made manifold from Rifeng allows easy multi-zone control and adjustment, without the need to ever mess with the tubing after you install it.
And of course, everything is done in PEX, to eliminate the cost, slow installation, and boiler-room heat loss of copper pipes.
Disclaimer: Like all of my experiments, and indeed my whole lifestyle, there is some unproven stuff in here. I am using myself as a guinea pig, and there may be some trial and error, and even risk involved. Enjoy and learn, but don’t dive in as a beginner just to follow me (another beginner) blindly!
Boiling it all down, the system I ended up with is relatively simple, and I drew it out for you in this picture:
My proposed radiant heat system (click for larger)
So far, this is a work in progress. I have already run this by a system designer and received his nod of approval, and completed some of the installation, so I am sure we can get this to work. But there are surely improvements to be made.
The great thing about this blog is that there are many people reading right now (including professional plumbers) who have already done this, so if you have any suggestions on how to improve or simplify it further, it would be much appreciated and I will update the article as new information is received. I will also publish a second post when everything is done, to show a few of the steps in progress and the finished pictures.
Reader corrections so far:
Add the expansion tank before the pump, not after it as currently shown
Watch out for Legionella bacteria growth in an open-loop system like this. While rare, the bacteria is dangerous. Exactly the same risk exists if you have a tank-type water heater and keep the water under about 120F. Solution: make sure my tankless unit is hot (legionella dies above 122F, so perhaps 130 or higher), to exterminate bacteria. Also, drain or flush the heating loops during the offseason so the water does not sit stagnant for months.
OR, create two-loop system with a heat exchanger in between the two loops, so the heating water never touches the hot tap water. This requires oxygen-barrier PEX and an air eliminator. You can also buy tankless heaters with two independent loops: one for heating, one for potable water.
Add a check valve on the 3/4″ return line so cold water cannot sneak back into the manifold instead of going to the Rheem (I guess this could happen when the pump is off)
Actually, add a check valve on every loop, just to make sure there are no flow surprises and water goes the direction you want it to. Otherwise, cold water can be drawn through loops unexpectedly.
Many tankless heaters (including the Rheem I recommend above) are not warrantied for use in heating systems. This is fine for me, as I find warranties are generally useless anyway. But it is good to note.
Further criticism about this experiment showed up here on the forum of the useful site called heatinghelp.com. While the thread almost convinced me that I am an idiot, the thing is that a similar discussion forms somewhere on the internet about every single article that ever appears on this blog. Many plumbers spend their days cursing this site just because I recommend doing some of your own plumbing with PEX, for example. The problem is that my fellow tradesmen tend to use anecdotes rather than statistics to make these safety decisions. The experiment will go on undeterred, but I will make a point of doing some tests with my friend who works at the city’s drinking water treatment/analysis lab.
What About Cooling?
Every house should be designed to suit its own climate. Here in Colorado, we have intense sun nearly every day but much cooler nights due to our elevation 5000 feet above sea level. So the house has loads of South-facing windows to capture heat and more loads of thermal mass to smooth out day and night temperature swings.
In the summer, this picture flips around: the Earth tilts so the sun is nearly overhead (and the large overhangs I built onto the house shade the windows from the rest of it). You keep the windows closed during the 90F days and the interior stays cool. On summer nights, the temperatures drop below 60F, so you run a large fan blowing out the day’s heat to cool everything down and begin the cycle anew.
I find this strategy (along with not being a Giant A/C Wussy) allows us to live happily without turning on our A/C in Colorado. But there’s always a backup: most modern houses without ducts use a ductless mini-split air conditioning system for cooling. These can be more efficient than central A/C systems, because you only cool the rooms where heat is building up. I will add a system like this if necessary, but we will be sure to test out a summer without air conditioning first, since the place is likely to be even more comfortable than our current house, even without cooling.
As the final cheat sheet, here is my shopping cart from PexSupply, my preferred supplier of plumbing stuff. There are a few extra things in my shopping cart for building out the bathrooms, but in general this is a complete system for a 1500 square foot house: about $1100, with free shipping and no sales tax. Add in the water heater and you have a complete heat and hot water system that costs less than a single low-efficiency furnace.
An efficiency upgrade to this system: I also purchased two boxes of aluminum heat reflector plates from Amazon which should improve heat transfer and efficiency slightly. Cost was $2.45 per 4-foot plate ($245 for each box of 100).
Update: After building the system with these, I feel it was highly worthwhile as it makes installation faster and cleaner, and improving heat transfer is a worthwhile goal with wood floors – while they work well, you do need all the heat you can get.
Update: One Year Later
This system is now up and running and you can read the results in the update article here:
What a difference five years make…a new report from Zillow revealed that the national housing market ended 2016 worth a whopping $29.6 trillion.
It’s now January 5th, and based on how things are going, it’s probably safe to say we’ve eclipsed the $30 trillion mark, or are close to it…I say that semi-jokingly.
Last year, the total value of the U.S. housing stock increased $1.6 trillion, marking a 5.7% increase over the previous year.
The $29.6 trillion figure is a new record high, though it is only expected to go higher this year as homes continue to gain in value, despite the prospect of higher mortgage rates.
The housing market has now recouped the $6.4 trillion lost between 2006 and 2012 when the bubble burst.
Interestingly, had the housing bubble never occurred home prices would actually be higher than they are now, but chances are we’ll overshoot rational pricing again during this cycle.
The big question is how much more upward momentum there is before things begin to cool down, or potentially recede.
Los Angeles Real Estate Valued at $2.5 Trillion
Everyone knows real estate is expensive in LA, but who would have thought the total housing stock in metropolitan Los Angeles would be worth $2.5 trillion?
That makes it the most valuable metro in the nation, likely thanks to the sprawling landscape and number of homes in the vast area.
It also accounts for a staggering 8.6% of the country’s overall housing value.
It was followed closely by New York/Northern New Jersey, with a total value of $2.4 trillion. Rounding out the top five in terms of total value were San Francisco ($1.3 trillion), Washington DC ($975.1 billion), and Miami-Fort Lauderdale ($818.8 billion).
Homes tend to be priciest in San Francisco, but there just aren’t as many of them.
The NYC metro represented about eight percent of total U.S. real estate value, followed by San Francisco, with 4.2 percent of the overall value.
In other words, roughly 21% of the value of the U.S. real estate market is contained in just three metros, LA, NYC, and SF.
Obviously, price swings in these expensive metros can sway the national number quite a bit, which is why it should always be taken with a grain a salt.
Indy Leads Least Valuable Metros
The five least valuable metros of the 35 listed by Zillow included Indianapolis ($111.7 billion), San Antonio ($116.4 billion), Cleveland ($116.8 billion), Cincinnati ($128.6 billion), and Kansas City ($129.7 billion).
They’re all smaller metros relative to the others on the list and also tend to have cheaper homes available.
The biggest year-over-year gainer was Portland, which saw an annual value increase of 13.4%, which is shockingly strong. No wonder they don’t want Californians buying their homes.
Despite the impressive gains seen over the past four or five years, 60% of metropolitan markets nationwide are still below the peak valuations reached during the bubble years.
One example is Chicago, where homes are still collectively worth $134 billion less than the highest value reached back in 2006.
That means there are still opportunities out there to get a home for a historically low price, though the bargains seem to be long gone. And housing will just get more and more expensive for Americans, likely pricing out families as rates and prices rise in tandem.
Speaking of, renting is still big business, with a total of $478.5 billion in rent paid last year, a $17.7 billion increase from 2015.
Despite housing’s popularity, some 635,000 new renter households were created in 2016, increasing the total dollar amount paid despite a slowdown in rent appreciation.
In the New York/Northern New Jersey metro alone, nearly $55 billion was spent on rent last year, the most of any area in the country.
The reality is that, much like that red wine stain on the rug, Sallie Mae student loans aren’t likely to evaporate into thin air. That’s because Sallie Mae is a private lender now.
And despite what you may have heard, there is currently no such thing as private student loan forgiveness.
Forgiveness is limited to federal education loans, and even then, the options are few. There are federal student loan forgiveness programs for those who go into public service or teaching. But other than that, it’s extremely difficult to cancel student loans.
Table of Contents
• Can Older Sallie Mae Loans Be Forgiven?
• What If You Don’t Qualify for Loan Forgiveness?
• Are There Alternatives to Private Student Loan Forgiveness?
• Can You Refinance Sallie Mae Student Loans?
Can Older Sallie Mae Loans Be Forgiven?
If you’re confused about whether your Sallie Mae loans are private or federal, it may be because the company has evolved over the years.
Though Sallie Mae, aka the SLM Corp., no longer services federal loans, that wasn’t always the case.
Sallie Mae was created in 1972 as the Student Loan Marketing Association, a government-sponsored enterprise that serviced federal education loans. Even though it became fully privatized in 2005, the company continued to service federal loans made under the Federal Family Education Loan (FFEL) Program until that program ended in 2010. Then, in 2014, Sallie Mae split into two companies: SLM Corp. and Navient Corp and shifted all its federal student loans to Navient.
So, if you have an older loan — one that originated before 2014 — it may have been a federal loan that started out with Sallie Mae and then moved on to Navient. And if that’s the case, you may be able to apply for Sallie Mae loan forgiveness.
Applying can be complicated, and you may have to consolidate your loans into a Federal Direct Consolidation Loan as part of the process.
You can see if your old debt is a federal education loan by visiting the Federal Student Aid website. If it is, and you want to seek loan forgiveness, you’ll eventually make your application to the government.
Keep in mind that Navient shifted federal student loan accounts to Aidvantage, a division of Maximus Federal Services, after Navient cut ties with the Department of Education in late 2021.
You can contact your current loan servicer for information on how to get started.
Recommended: How Do Student Loans Work? Guide to Student Loans
Take control of your student loans. Ditch student loan debt for good.
What If You Don’t Qualify for Loan Forgiveness?
If federal student loan forgiveness seems a long shot for you, don’t despair — you also may want to look into deferment or forbearance. These strategies allow qualifying borrowers to temporarily reduce or stop their federal student loan payments. However, depending on the type of federal loan you have, interest may continue to accrue while payments are paused, which could increase the overall cost of the loan.
Looking for a more long-term solution? An income-based repayment plan can offer qualified applicants another way to lower federal student loan payments. The four options limit how much money you put towards student loans each month based on family size and discretionary income (the difference between your annual income and 150% of the poverty guideline for your family size and state of residence).
You can contact your loan servicer for assistance with federal loan repayment. If you don’t know who your servicer is, you can find out by visiting your Federal Student Aid dashboard or calling 800-433-3243.
Are There Alternatives to Private Student Loan Forgiveness?
Although there currently is no such thing as Sallie Mae private student loan forgiveness, there are alternatives available to borrowers struggling to manage their private loans.
Private lenders don’t offer income-driven repayment plans. But if you feel comfortable calling Sallie Mae (or any lender) directly, you could ask about other repayment plans they might offer or what ideas they might have for your situation. At the very least, it doesn’t hurt to learn more about your loans.
And some lenders, including Sallie Mae, offer deferment and forbearance for those who qualify.
The timeline and cost for each of these programs may vary by lender. Sallie Mae, for example, may require a “good faith payment” to go into forbearance, and you can press pause on payments for only three months at a time, for a maximum of a year.
Something else to consider if you’re thinking about deferment or forbearance is that — just as with federal loans — even though the payments are paused, interest may continue to accrue. And this can increase the total cost of the loan.
Recommended: Private Student Loans Guide
Can You Refinance Sallie Mae Student Loans?
If you can’t make any headway with your current repayment plan, you can always look into refinancing student loans.
Though there are advantages to refinancing student loans, there are potential drawbacks to consider. For instance, if you refinance your federal loans through a private lender, you may give up some important benefits, such as access to the payment pause and federal repayment programs.
Sallie Mae doesn’t offer student loan consolidation and refinancing anymore, but you could potentially reduce your interest rate by refinancing your student loans with a different private lender, especially if you have a good credit history and strong potential earnings.
If you’re approved, the new lender will pay off your old loans and issue you one new student loan — hopefully with a lower interest rate. A lower rate can save money on interest payments over the life of the loan, provided that the loan term isn’t extended.
Though you can’t combine federal and private student loans through a federal loan consolidation program, some private lenders will refinance both.
You could extend your loan term if you’re hoping to make your monthly payments more manageable, or you could opt for a shorter loan term to try to get out of debt sooner.
Recommended: Student Loan Consolidation Rates: What to Expect
The Takeaway
Lender Sallie Mae used to offer federal student loans, and if you received one, you may be able to qualify for loan forgiveness. But federal student loan forgiveness can be hard to get — and if you have a private student loan through Sallie Mae, forgiveness is not available. There are, however, repayment options, including refinancing your student loans.
It might be beneficial to look for a refinancing lender that offers extras. SoFi members, for instance, can qualify for rate discounts and have access to career services, financial advisors, networking events, and more — at no extra cost.
Refi with SoFi today to get flexible terms and a competitive low rate before interest rates rise even higher!
FAQ
Does Sallie Mae service federal loans?
Sallie Mae only services private student loans, though that wasn’t always the case. If you have a loan that originated before 2014, it may have been a federal loan that started out with Sallie Mae and then moved to Navient. In early 2022, Navient shifted all of its federal student loans to a new servicer, Aidvantage.
How do I know whether my student loan is private or federal?
You can visit the Federal Student Aid website; information about your federal loans will be listed in your dashboard.
What student loans are not eligible for forgiveness?
Private student loans are not eligible for forgiveness.
SoFi Student Loan Refinance If you are looking to refinance federal student loans, please be aware that the White House has announced up to $20,000 of student loan forgiveness for Pell Grant recipients and $10,000 for qualifying borrowers whose student loans are federally held. Additionally, the federal student loan payment pause and interest holiday has been extended beyond December 31, 2022. Please carefully consider these changes before refinancing federally held loans with SoFi, since the amount or portion of your federal student debt that you refinance will no longer qualify for the federal loan payment suspension, interest waiver, or any other current or future benefits applicable to federal loans. If you qualify for federal student loan forgiveness and still wish to refinance, leave unrefinanced the amount you expect to be forgiven to receive your federal benefit.
CLICK HERE for more information.
Notice: SoFi refinance loans are private loans and do not have the same repayment options that the federal loan program offers such as Income-Driven Repayment plans, including Income-Contingent Repayment or PAYE. SoFi always recommends that you consult a qualified financial advisor to discuss what is best for your unique situation.
SoFi Private Student Loans Please borrow responsibly. SoFi Private Student Loans are not a substitute for federal loans, grants, and work-study programs. You should exhaust all your federal student aid options before you consider any private loans, including ours. Read our FAQs.
SoFi Private Student Loans are subject to program terms and restrictions, and applicants must meet SoFi’s eligibility and underwriting requirements. See SoFi.com/eligibility for more information. To view payment examples, click here. SoFi reserves the right to modify eligibility criteria at any time. This information is subject to change. Financial Tips & Strategies: The tips provided on this website are of a general nature and do not take into account your specific objectives, financial situation, and needs. You should always consider their appropriateness given your own circumstances. Checking Your Rates: To check the rates and terms you may qualify for, SoFi conducts a soft credit pull that will not affect your credit score. However, if you choose a product and continue your application, we will request your full credit report from one or more consumer reporting agencies, which is considered a hard credit pull and may affect your credit. Non affiliation: SoFi isn’t affiliated with any of the companies highlighted in this article. Third-Party Brand Mentions: No brands, products, or companies mentioned are affiliated with SoFi, nor do they endorse or sponsor this article. Third-party trademarks referenced herein are property of their respective owners. External Websites: The information and analysis provided through hyperlinks to third-party websites, while believed to be accurate, cannot be guaranteed by SoFi. Links are provided for informational purposes and should not be viewed as an endorsement. SOSL1122005
Guest post from Sarah of Saving Money Never Goes Out of Style
When it comes to savings, we often spend a lot of time focusing on coupons, special sales, and the hottest deals of the week. However, some of us frugal moms know it goes much further than that! Saving money for your family isn’t just about hunting down the next deal, but about making small lifelong changes in your home.
Here are 7 simple ways to save money every day that are easy to implement into your daily life. While not all will work for every family, you’ll easily find some tips that are simple changes you won’t even notice or feel like you’re sacrificing.
1. Ditch Paper Towels
If you have kids in the house you know that paper towels can be a monthly investment. Between meals, cleaning spills, and wiping sticky hands you are throwing away a ton of money each year.
Instead of buying paper, invest in some nice cloth napkins for your kids to use at meal time. Grab some old hand towels and wash cloths and designate those for cleaning up spills.
Tip: Colorful bandanas make great color coded dinner time napkins for large families! Each person has their own color to use.
2. Turn Off & Unplug Electronics
This is a great way to save money. While the savings are small, they do add up over time. Turn off all electronics when not in use and make a habit of hitting light switches as you leave a room as well.
Go even further by unplugging in between uses, too. That toaster sitting out on your counter that is rarely used? Simply unplug it and save yourself some money.
3. Plan a Menu
Taking the time to make a menu plan will cut back on last-minute take out and wasted food. And don’t forget to utilize your slow cooker during the school year or a busy season!
By having a plan in place, you will use more of what you have on hand and cut back on extra spending. No more running to the store for that one ingredient you forgot!
4. Learn To Sew
This is a great tip for those with girls, especially. Old pillowcases, t-shirts, ladies’ dresses, or men’s shirts can all be easily revamped and tailored into dresses for little girls. Shopping the thrift shop for gently used clothes in different patterns and styles can also lead to fun new revamped ensembles with a bit of sewing.
If you’re not a seamstress, even something as simple as replacing a button instead of throwing an item out is helpful. Or, if you have a son like mine, when he blows out the knees in his jeans, you can easily make them into shorts for the next season!
5. Brown Bag It
Taking your own lunch consisting of healthy portions of leftovers or specific lunch items can really save you a lot of money over time. If you also learn to make your own snacks and gourmet coffee, you’ll significantly increase your savings.
Don’t have time to make your own snacks all the time? Buying a box of granola bars in store is far cheaper than buying a single bar from the gas station or vending machine.
Do your kids like Lunchables? Make your own! All it takes is Ritz crackers, some deli meat, and cheese singles, and you’re good to go.
6. Cook From Scratch
It may seem like it will take so much more time, but simple things like making soups and beans in a slow cooker can cost a fraction of what canned varieties do.
Grab dry beans for $1-$2 a pound and cook them in your crock pot all day. When cooked, a $1 bag of dried beans will often be the equivalent to 4-5 cans you would have purchased at $1each. Over a year’s time, that can add up to quite a bit of savings in your grocery budget.
7. Pay With Cash
Make a point of paying for things with cash. There is a lot to be said about the concept of not buying anything else for the month once you run out of cash on hand. It helps you stay within your means, and not rely on credit cards. It also gives you a chance to save that change in a piggy bank for rainy days, treats, or vacations.
No matter what your household budget is, you can easily put into place a few of these 7 simple ways to save money every day and increase the money in your pocket. These things can free up money to pay off debt, or simply help you stop living paycheck to paycheck.
What simple things do you do to save money every day?
Sarah is a stay-at-home mom of two wonderful children. From homeless to well-off, this single debt-free mom is most known for her ability to live well on $18k/year. Sarah loves encouraging others that dreams do come true if they are willing to consistently work for it. Follow her blog: Saving Money Never Goes Out of Style.
Illinois is home to Chicago, one of the most populous cities in the U.S. But whether you live in Chicago, Joliet, Carbondale, or one of the many small towns in Illinois, there’s a bank for you.
The state is home to a wide range of bank branches, from large, national banks to small lenders and credit unions. When you’re ready to shop banks in Illinois, there are several factors to consider.
10 Best Banks in Illinois
1. BMO Harris
Although BMO Harris is a regional bank, it’s headquartered in Chicago, so it has a heavy Illinois presence. The bank has been around since 1882 and has long been considered one of the best banks in Illinois.
In addition to branches in Illinois, Indiana, Arizona, Missouri, Minnesota, Kansas, Florida, and Wisconsin, BMO Harris also offers ATM access through the MoneyPass network. They have a checking account option with no monthly maintenance fees, as well as a robust mobile banking app to manage your account.
Fees:
No monthly service fee
$15 overdraft fee
Balance requirements:
$25 opening deposit
No minimum daily balance required
ATMs:
Fee-free at 40,000+ BMO Harris and MoneyPass ATMs nationwide
$3 fee for out-of-network transactions
Interest on balance:
0.01% APY on savings
Additional perks:
Spending habit analysis available in mobile app
Competitive loan rates
2. U.S. Bank
Illinois residents looking for a national bank should check out U.S. Bank. U.S. Bank has ATMs across Illinois and the rest of the country, and a full selection of savings accounts and checking accounts, as well as an online banking option.
Currently, one of U.S. Bank’s best deals is its Bank Smartly Checking account, which pays interest on your balance and currently offers a $300 sign-up bonus. What makes this one of the best checking accounts, though, is that if you enroll in Smart Rewards, you’ll earn rewards based on your account balance.
Fees:
$6.95 monthly fee (waived with qualifying direct deposits or minimum balance)
$36 overdraft fee (waived up to $50)
Balance requirements:
$25 minimum deposit to open
No minimum daily balance required
ATMs:
Fee-free at 4,700 ATMs nationwide
$2.50 transaction fee for each out-of-network ATM
Interest on balance:
Up to 0.05% APY on Bank Smartly checking
0.01% APY on savings
Additional perks:
Automatically move up interest tiers as your balance grows
Additional rewards for seniors, children, military, and veterans
3. Chime
Chime is another online bank that operates without local branches. You’ll have everything you need in the app, with online banking features like peer-to-peer payments and an ATM locator.
You can also sign up for a Chime High-Yield Savings Account and earn interest rates of 2.00% APY on your balance. With automatic savings features, money can be automatically moved from your checking account to savings to help you set money aside for the future.
Fees:
No monthly fees
No overdraft fees
Balance requirements:
No minimum deposit to open
No minimum daily balance required
ATMs:
Fee-free at 60,000+ ATMs nationwide
$2.50 transaction fee for out-of-network ATMs
Interest on balance:
2.00% APY on savings accounts
Additional perks:
Spot Me covers up to $200 in overdrafts
Round Ups feature automatically moves money into savings
4. Huntington Bank
Huntington Bank is a regional bank with branches in Illinois, Ohio, Colorado, Florida, Indiana, Kentucky, Michigan, Minnesota, Pennsylvania, West Virginia, and Wisconsin. There are multiple tiers of checking accounts, but if you’re looking for the basics, the Asterisk-Free Checking Account is fully free with no minimum balance requirement.
Before choosing this bank, check for branches and ATMs in your area. Cash withdrawals are only fee-free at Huntington-owned ATMs. But if you’re fine with relying on mobile banking apps for all of your banking services, you’ll likely find everything you need while traveling.
Fees:
No monthly service fee
$15 per-transaction overdraft fee after balance goes $50 in the negative
Balance requirements:
No minimum opening deposit
No minimum daily balance required
ATMs:
Fee-free at more than 1,600 Huntington Bank ATMs nationwide
$3.50 fee for each out-of-network transaction
Interest on balance:
Up to 0.06% APY on savings
Additional perks:
View current account balance without logging in
Standby Cash offers quick access to credit line
5. Chase
Those who prefer a national bank might like Chase Bank, which has branches throughout Illinois, as well as 47 other states (excluding Alaska and Hawaii). New customers can qualify for a $200 bonus by opening an account and setting up direct deposit within 90 days.
There are multiple checking account options, but Chase Total Checking is the most popular. There’s a $12 fee each month, but if you’re taking advantage of the bonus, direct deposit accounts waive the fee as long as at least $500 is coming in each month.
Fees:
$12 service fee per month (waived with $500 in qualifying deposits or $1,500 daily balance)
$34 per transaction (waived with Overdraft Assist)
Balance requirements:
No minimum deposit to open
No minimum daily balance required ($1,500 to waive $12 monthly fee)
ATMs:
Fee-free at more than 16,000 Chase Bank ATMs nationwide
$3-$5 fee for each out-of-network transaction
Interest on balance:
Up to 0.01% APY on savings
Additional perks:
$200 bonus for new checking account with direct deposit
Checking accounts available for children ages 6 to 17
6. CIT Bank
CIT Bank is an online-only bank that is geared toward helping you set money aside for the future. One notable product is the CIT Platinum Savings account, which offers 4.75 APY on balances of $5,000 or more if you deposit at least $100 monthly.
But CIT is great if you’re in the market for a checking account, too. With CIT eChecking, you get one of the rare interest checking accounts that comes with no monthly fees or minimum balance. Although there are no ATMs or branches, CIT does refund up to $30 a month for non-network ATMs.
Fees:
No monthly service fee
No overdraft fee
Balance requirements:
$100 minimum deposit to open
No minimum daily balance required
ATMs:
No CIT ATMs available
Up to $30 monthly in non-network ATM fees refunded
Interest on balance:
Up to 0.10% APY on checking
Up to 0.25% APY on checking with $25,000+ balance
Up to 4.75% APY on savings
Additional perks:
Up to 1.00% APY on savings with $100 monthly deposit
Up to 5.00% APY on CDs
7. Fifth Third Bank
Another regional bank with a heavy Illinois presence is Fifth Third Bank out of Ohio. You’ll find branches in Illinois, Ohio, Florida, Georgia, Indiana, Kentucky, Michigan, North Carolina, South Carolina, Tennessee, and West Virginia.
Fifth Third Bank offers a variety of account options, but the most popular checking account is Momentum Checking, which has no monthly fee. Your checking account comes with Extra Time, which notifies you of insufficient funds so that you can avoid overdraft fees.
Fees:
No monthly service fee
$37 overdraft fee
Balance requirements:
No minimum opening deposit
No minimum daily balance required
ATMs:
Fee-free at more than 40,000 Fifth Third and MoneyPass ATMs nationwide
$3 fee for out-of-network transactions
Interest on balance:
0.01% APY on savings
Additional perks:
Identity theft monitoring available through Trilegiant for a fee
Fifth Third Extra Time notifies you of overdrafts to let you deposit money by the end of the day
8. PNC Bank
PNC is one of the larger regional banks, with a presence in 27 states, including Illinois. Currently, you can earn a bonus of up to $200 when you open a checking account and enroll in qualifying Virtual Wallet products.
Where PNC really excels is in its online and mobile banking offerings. Its checking account comes with no monthly service fees or minimum balance requirement, and Low Cash Mode lets you manage things when funds get low.
Fees:
No monthly service fees
$36 maximum overdraft charges per day in Low Cash Mode
Balance requirements:
No minimum deposit to open
No minimum daily balance required
ATMs:
Fee-free at 60,000+ ATMs nationwide
$3 transaction fee for out-of-network ATMs
Interest on balance:
2.00% APY on savings
4.30% APY on high-yield savings account
Additional perks:
$200 bonus with Virtual Wallet signup
Low cash mode helps you when funds are low
9. Ally
While there are no physical branches, Ally Bank builds everything you need into its online and mobile banking platforms. You’ll not only get a free checking account with no fees or minimum daily balance requirement, but both checking and savings accounts offer interest on your balance.
There are some activities that mobile banking can’t handle, though. Ally has you covered on those, too. You’ll have fee-free access to 43,000 AllPoint ATMs in Illinois and nationwide. One downside is that you can’t deposit cash at partner retailers as you can with some other online-only accounts.
Fees:
No monthly service fee
No overdraft fees
Balance requirements:
No minimum opening deposit
No minimum daily balance required
ATMs:
Fee-free at more than 43,000 AllPoint ATMs nationwide
Up to $10 in fees at non-AllPoint ATMs reimbursed per statement cycle
Interest on balance:
0.25% APY on checking
3.75% APY on savings
Additional perks:
Spending buckets help you budget
Access to paycheck up to two days early
10. GO2Bank
Another online banking option open to Illinois residents is GO2Bank. You can do most of your banking through their app, including mobile check deposit, online bill pay, and the ability to manage your account.
One unique thing this mobile bank offers is the ability to deposit cash at retailers nationwide. GO2Bank’s savings accounts come with 4.50% APY on balances up to $5,000.
Fees:
$5 per month (waived with eligible direct deposit)
$15 per-transaction overdraft fee
Balance requirements:
No minimum deposit to open
No minimum daily balance required
ATMs:
Fee-free at 55,000+ ATMs nationwide
$3 transaction fee for out-of-network ATMs
Interest on balance:
4.50% APY on savings accounts
Additional perks:
Earn up to 7% by purchasing e-gift cards in the app
Deposit cash at 90,000+ retail locations nationwide
Illinois has plenty of options, whether you go with an Illinois bank or one headquartered elsewhere. The best banks in Illinois combine low fees with features that make banking convenient for you. Don’t rule out online bank options, since you can easily find one with all the features you need, along with fee-free access to local ATMs.
Finding the Best Banks in Illinois
With so many options, it can be tough to narrow down the list of the best banks in Illinois. Whether you choose a local, national, or regional bank, though, it’s important to find the one that offers what you need. Here are some features to consider in your search for a new bank.
FDIC Insurance
When you turn your money over to someone else, you’ll want to make sure it’s safe. If the economy crashes or a bank fails, you won’t want to lose your money. In the U.S., the Federal Deposit Insurance Corporation covers consumers. But that coverage is limited to $250,000 in principal and interest per depositor, per account. Additionally, investment products aren’t covered, although your money market account, individual retirement accounts, and other types of savings account options likely are.
It’s also important to note that not all banks are insured by the FDIC. Whether you’re going with a large, corporate lender or opening a checking account online, research to make sure it’s FDIC insured. Also, pay close attention to limits and make sure you don’t exceed $250,000 with each account.
ATM/Branch Access
At one time, you’d have to rely on local branches and ATMs to deposit checks and withdraw cash. But thanks to tools like Apple Pay and Samsung Pay, you don’t even have to pull out your wallet to make a purchase. Still, you’ll occasionally need some cash, which is why the best banks in Illinois go beyond digital solutions.
Whether you choose a national bank or you open an account online, pay close attention to how you’ll get that help when you need it. Many online bank accounts now partner with ATM networks like AllPoint and MoneyPass to give you that option. Some let you deposit cash through local retailers for a fee.
Low Fees, Great Features
It’s easier than ever to find a checking account with no monthly fees. Even those that do charge monthly maintenance fees will sometimes waive them as long as you have your paycheck electronically deposited or maintain a minimum balance from day to day.
But as you’re researching the best banks in Illinois, it’s important to consider all the costs. If you choose a fee-free online banking option, for instance, but you’ll be paying $10 or more a month for ATMs, it might be worth it to go with one of the national banks that charge a small monthly fee.
Advantages and Disadvantages of Local Banks
National banks have a heavy presence throughout Illinois, but some of the best banks in Illinois are smaller and more community-based. Here are some advantages of going with a local bank:
May provide more personal service
Savings account interest rates may be more competitive
Might have lower rates on auto loans and personal loans
Credit score requirements can be more flexible
There are a few disadvantages, as well, including:
Online banking features might not be as developed
ATM access may be limited while traveling
May have fewer specialized accounts
Savings Accounts
It can be easy to look around for the best checking accounts when you’re planning on making a switch. But saving for the future is important, too. You might find a local bank has lower fees on checking, but a national bank offers better interest yields on its savings accounts. When the benefits outweigh the costs, it could affect your choice.
There are a few other things to consider in a savings account. Some have an initial deposit, while others require a sizable balance for their higher interest rates. Furthermore, consider how often you’ll need to withdraw funds from the account. Many savings accounts limit you to six fee-free withdrawals and transfers per statement cycle under Regulation D.
Other Products and Services
Although checking accounts and savings accounts are top priority with a bank account, there are some other things to consider. You may find the best banks serve as a one-stop shop for all your lending needs, from money market accounts to CDs to mortgage loans. You may instead be someone who prefers to bank with multiple lenders.
It’s also important to look at the payment features your bank offers. Your bank account will likely come with a debit card. Can you earn rewards for using it? If your Illinois bank has credit card options, check for perks, rewards, and APR with those as well. Some financial institutions offer bonuses for new accounts or credit card sign-ups, and that can be another way to cut costs with a new bank.
This is fantastic guest post by Omie Ismall who shares his experience as successful entrepreneur. Looking to create your own start-up company from scratch? If so, read this and take notes.
Some years ago, I sat down with one of my Board members to discuss my next year’s compensation. He said something that still sticks with me to this day,
“You know, your salary doesn’t matter because you’ll never build real wealth from it”
I dismissed the thought. After all, I had built a six-figure portfolio by the time I was thirty and carried no debt. My wife and I had lived cheaply since college and had saved 25% of our dual incomes. But my advisor, who was worth tens of millions of dollars, knew firsthand that the truly rich almost all do it via equity not salary.
Sure, anyone that makes a reasonable salary can build up a million-dollar portfolio by simply living below their means and investing the excess cash. That’s much of what we preach at LiveCheap. It takes a long time with great expense control, but it is the safest way to becoming relatively well-off at minimal risk.
But the amount of wealth that can be built up with an equity position can make your best efforts saving salary look like a pittance. It’s not the only way, as I wrote in 5 Ways to Get Rich in Less Than 15 Years, but for those that want to build something and make a fortune, small companies can be a goldmine.
Average Entrepreneur
I’m not talking about the Bill Gates’ or the Michael Dell’s of the world. That’s not your average entrepreneur. Most small company business owners make their money by dramatically increasing their net worth on the path from $1 million in revenues to $10 million.
At $1 million, the company is nearly worthless but at $10 million it could be worth $20 million or more. In fact, once the $10 million mark is crossed, a whole host of potential buyers are quite eager to write you a big check. If you can spend 10 years of your life and grow a company past that mark, you will be wealthier than almost anyone of reasonable income. Sound easy? It’s not.
It took me 18 months to hit the $1MM mark from the day of our first sale, but it took nearly 5 more years to get beyond $5MM. And by most business standards, especially when you are creating an industry, that’s fast.
The small company is a massive wealth builder for a couple key reasons. Running a successful small company forces you to live below your means. Your net worth includes a concentrated position in something that you cannot access: private company stock.
Since you are always exposed to downside risk, you tend to be very hesitant about spending money, as you may need to invest capital into the company at any time. Also, being successful at a small business usually means watching expenses carefully, something that usually is done in one’s personal life too.
When you finally sell, it is treated as a long term capital gain subject to a maximum 15% federal capital gains tax. If it were income, it would be taxed at more than twice the rate. So when the day comes to sell, most entrepreneurs are able to undergo a radical change in lifestyle, although many stay true to their frugal ways.
This varies dramatically from doctors or lawyers who tend to scale their expenses as their incomes grow and don’t fall victim to the common traits of the wealthy. An entrepreneur that has never pulled down more than a $150,000 salary may suddenly have a check for $10 million dollars.
So what’s the catch?
Well, few people want to work hard enough to make it happen. You make less than you would at a regular job and work far more hours, anywhere from 60 to 100 a week, for many years. The stress is enormous and you find out very quickly how hard it is to consistently meet payroll. You’ll expose your family to downside risk that you never had being a regular employee and you’ll put off the things that your family wants to do for years all in the name of the business.
Unlike a regular job, you just can’t hop to a new gig every few years: your employees depend on you and you’re tied to the business. There are dozens more drawbacks but for me they were all overshadowed, not by the ability to build wealth, but rather the ability to build something of lasting value. And that’s probably the reason why most entrepreneurs don’t want to sell their business even when they have multiples of what they need to retire. They love it and become inseparable from it.
Interested in building real wealth?
The following list is a quick gut check for being an entrepreneur and learning how to make a million:
Are you willing to put your family at financial risk in order to grow a company?
Are you willing to put in the late nights and weekends to make it happen?
Do you have core skills that will let you become a great business owner?
Do you know an industry well enough to run with an opportunity?
Do you have a passion for something? – just wanting to make money usually isn’t enough
Do you have enough capital to start the business or make an acquisition?
Will your spouse or significant other support you in your endeavor?
The last point is vitally important. Entrepreneurs often have no idea how much they put their wives (or husbands) through. If you answered yes to these questions, then start heading down the path of entrepreneurship. In 10 to 15 years, you may have more than enough money to retire, even if you don’t want to.
Omie Ismail is the CEO of Live Smart Media Inc. the holding company for LiveCheap.com. Omie is a successful information and software CEO for the past decade having taken eCivis Inc. from concept to become the leading grants management company for governments nationwide. He has a passion for helping people live the good life cheaply and for growing businesses from the ground up. Omie currently splits his time between his family, LiveCheap, and his next venture.